She's suddenly tough to start!

[freddymac63]

My DS4110 (502 hrs) has always been easy to start until the last few weeks. Now the only way I can get her started is with a shot of ether. She'll also die periodically. Doesn't matter if you're idling or higher RPM, if she's under a load or not, just suddenly die. Usually can get her started up again with a couple tries, sometimes it takes more ether. I have run a couple tanks of diesel through her since the problem started. Changed the fuel filter at 396 hrs. Would certainly appreciate your suggestions.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Ether is a really bad idea for a glow-plug Diesel. I suspect a wonky key switch. Have you tried squirting lube or contact cleaner in the key hole?

Additional comments: Check that you are actually getting power (near 12v) at the glow plugs when the switch is in glow and the dash light is on. Lack of glow would explain the "hard to start". If your glow plugs aren't working you may have dodged a bullet using ether. Don't use ether on this type engine. The sudden stop, regardless of RPM or load sounds like the stop solenoid (SS) losing power. The hold coil of the SS is powered directly from the ignition switch and any power interruption will release the SS and stop the engine. Certain injection pump problems might also cause your symptoms but lets check the cheap and easy stuff first.

 

[freddymac63]

assumed it was clogged injectors or bad fuel did not consider the switch. Will check the switch and glow plug voltage. The indicator lamp comes on but have not checked the voltage.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Injectors can cause many problems, but not sudden stoppage at various power settings. Also, it's unusual for all injectors to go bad at the same time. Fuel starvation will normally reduce available power but still idle OK. One fuel problem that's consistent with your symptoms would be an air leak into the fuel feed, which could make starting very hard or stop suddenly when a bubble hits the IP. But recommend you check the other stuff first.

 

[freddymac63]

Thanks for your suggestions. sprayed the switch with WD40, cleaned and tightened the ground wire. She was significantly easier to start. Still acts a little odd. will kick off an run for about a second then die. did this several times before actually starting. does this sound like I'm intermittently losing voltage to the stop solenoid which I assume would be a switch issue?

 

[phiferpharm]

Thanks for your suggestions. sprayed the switch with WD40, cleaned and tightened the ground wire. She was significantly easier to start. Still acts a little odd. will kick off an run for about a second then die. did this several times before actually starting. does this sound like I'm intermittently losing voltage to the stop solenoid which I assume would be a switch issue?

Had a similar problem with my DK45. It would start and then stop almost as soon as I let go of the key switch. I swapped out the battery and ground cable and have not had the problem again.

 

[topbuilder]

Thanks for your suggestions. sprayed the switch with WD40, cleaned and tightened the ground wire. She was significantly easier to start. Still acts a little odd. will kick off an run for about a second then die. did this several times before actually starting. does this sound like I'm intermittently losing voltage to the stop solenoid which I assume would be a switch issue?

That sounds like air more than electric.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Thanks for your suggestions. sprayed the switch with WD40, cleaned and tightened the ground wire. She was significantly easier to start. Still acts a little odd. will kick off an run for about a second then die. did this several times before actually starting. does this sound like I'm intermittently losing voltage to the stop solenoid which I assume would be a switch issue?

If it starts right up (even if it dies right after) your glow plugs should be OK.

You should be able to hear the stop solenoid retract when you turn the key to the ON position and also when you turn the key OFF if the engine isn't running. The stop solenoid is much louder than a relay so this is an easy check. See if you hear the stop solenoid release when you turn the key OFF after the engine has died. If the hold power to the SS was interrupted (and that's why the engine quit) the SS should stay in the off/extended position and you won't hear it release, even if "hold" power was restored.

ADDED: By the way, without cranking the engine, turn the key switch ON and then (after about 10 seconds) OFF so you will be familiar with the sound of the SS retracting (ON) and then extending (OFF).

If the stop solenoid is OK and the engine actually ran (even briefly) the problem is fuel related. It may be the fuel feed to the injection pump (filter, feed pump, blockage, or air leak) or you may have an injection pump (IP) problem. Is the fuel filter bowl full and clean?

With the engine stopped, the rack in the IP is spring-loaded to the max fuel position. As soon as the engine starts running, the mechanical governor presses against the spring pressure to position the IP rack and regulate fuel to maintain idle RPM (or higher RPM if the power lever is set higher). If there is a problem with the springs or if the rack sticks in a no-fuel position the engine could stop. Given your earlier symptoms (normal operation after hard cold start but sudden, random stops) I think an IP or governor problem is less likely. So check other stuff first.

You can view the IP rack and throttle springs by removing the oil-fill cover plate in the right side of the engine. With the SS retracted (key ON) or removed the rack should move freely with finger pressure. With the switch off the SS should push the rack full aft (no fuel position). When the key is turned ON the SS should retract allowing the rack to move to the full forward (max fuel) position. You probably don't want to remove the plate with the engine running because considerable blow-by and oil spray will come out that hole.