Shoes on a rear blade?

[alflen52]

are there any places that make shoe kit for rear blades? I am having the same concerns/ I like the look of ruffdog,s

 

[ruffdog]

are there any places that make shoe kit for rear blades? I am having the same concerns/ I like the look of ruffdog,s

Those are on a Rhino blade and they were made by me. The part of the blade they are mounted is on a small angle so I figured that into the construction of the weldment. The brackets stay on all the time but install the shoe part when needed.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

This is the set I made at one time. Shoe is level with the bottom of a new edge on the blade. Shoe has a 1/4" sacrificial ware plate on the bottom, thus raising the cutting edge 1/4" high.
Worked well.

 

[oosik]

The OEM "shoes" for my Rhino 950 are like those in the right hand pic that Atsah posted - post #2. They work great if your driveway is asphalt or concrete or frozen to a certain extent. Otherwise - the weight of my blade - 1100# - causes those round shoes to slowly slip slide into the unfrozen gravel.

I've looked for something a foot long by six inches wide - ski arrangement - no joy. It just a whole lot easier to reverse the blade until the driveway gets hard as rock. Still removes the snow - does not "ditch" the gravel.

 

[atsah]

I agree, turning the blade around and dragging it would probably be the best way, the shoes will dig into non frozen gravel.

I tend to answer snow removal questions with the conditions I have here which is not what a lot of other people have for conditions. I have been here 13 years and have never plowed snow on soft ground, it's always frozen solid by the time I need to plow and that makes it much easier than it is for some of you guys that live in locations that don't freeze until after several storms or not at all.. Once it has snow cover as an insulator it's hard for the ground to freeze enough for something heavy and sharp not to penetrate it..

 

[msb1766]

Replace one or both of your 3 point hitch side links with some chain, that way the blade will float left to right and not have a corner dig in.

 

[MiserableOldFart]

I have shoes on my Woods rear blade. They work well, but I need to use an extra long top link to get the blade to sit back far enough to rest on them. I don't think the hydraulic top link on my new tractor will be long enough for it, so in winter, I'll have to go back to the long manual one I have specially for the rear blade. I also have Pat's hooks, so that makes the need for a long top link a little more. Measuring for the hydraulic top link, I was mainly concerned with the box blade, as the hydraulic link is especially handy for that. It also is handy with the chipper/shredder to keep it level. With the rear blade in snow, the top link is basically set it and forget it anyway. If your top link isn't long enough the shoes will want to dig into the ground. I would venture to guess that people who plow snow without shoes, have their top links adjusted to a much shorter length since they don't need to have the shoes flat on the ground. On a dirt and gravel driveway / road the shoes work well.

 

[oosik]

Because all my "vehicles" are 4WD - pickup, tractor, ATV - I usually DO NOT blade snow off the driveway until there is an 8" accumulation. This means - some years I have never plowed snow off the driveway. My driveway is one mile long - gravel.

Anyhow - the idea being, wait until the driveway is rock hard and I can use the rear blade in its "normal" configuration. I just HATE plowing sloppy snow with a soft driveway. The results are never that good.

I don't find that pulling gravel out of the driveway ditches, spreading, compacting to be that much fun.