Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots.

   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #1  

Minanora

New member
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
1
Location
Bradley, California
Tractor
2003 Kubota M6800
Looking for some recommendations for a do it all, take it all boots. I have 83 acres, most is mountain terrain. I have to cut trees/logs, hike up steep mountainsides, use the tractor, shovel trench, and trek through heavy woody brush. I try not to work in the hot summer, but sometimes I need to; fire season. Dirt is really powdery and dusty, I deal with stickers, rocks, some mud but not a lot. The woody brush seems to be the biggest obstacle and issue for the lifespan of my boots.


I need a boot that can take it all and not leave my feet screaming in pain after working/hiking, on average, a distance of 5 miles a day. I'm looking at the Seattle 8" boot from Keen, Carolina Elm boot, Justin work boots, and the Floorhand boot from Wolverine, but I'm open to other manufacturers, I do like Ariat boots but I'm trying to stick with a boot made in the USA. However, my feet need a good boot and they don't know the difference in origin. I just need a good boot. I worked in a pair of Timberlands for a while and they were ok, but ran really hot and didn't hold up great to the thick woody brush. Though I'm not sure any boot will hold up to the brush.

Figured it would be good to pick the brains of folks that may do the same types of work as me. Get some ideas of what other options there are to try. Thank you in advance.
 
   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #2  
Look at the Danner USMC rat boots for women. Wifey has a pair she loves.
 
   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #3  
For chainsaw work you should be using boots that will protect against chain cuts, for example steel toe boots. I'd recommend logger boots like the Redwing LoggerMax. The deep lugs give good traction on our steep slopes with low traction loam. The cutaway heel is better for walking down slopes. Mine are comfortable enough that I can go hiking in them. Redwings come in multiple widths for a better fit. There are a lot of brands of high quality logger boots.

The drawback? They are heavy. They will take some getting used to if you're not really fit. But these are the kind of boots that foresters and fire fighters use. The ankle support is welcome when walking on steep slopes and logs but can restrict ankle motion some while driving the tractor. When I'm doing that or stuff around the house and barn like splitting wood, I use a lighter pair of Carhart work boots with a composite toe.
 
   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #4  
In the dry summer - Keens or Redwing. In the wet - Mucks. In the winter - Sorel.
 
   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #5  
+1 on steel toes for chainsaw work.

Good leather is expensive, so plan to spend more for a longer lasting boot, but at some point, the work you are describing is very abrasive and will shorten the life of any boot. I would recommend a steel shank and a stiff sole for the work you describe. Your feet will thank you for it. As @ericm979 points out, Don't overlook good socks and or liner socks.

Big picture question: To what extent would a different tractor or a dozer or animals (e.g. goats, cows) solve some of your underbrush issues and work?
 
   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #6  
For chainsaw work there are dedicated boots that should be worn. For the other boot keep trying on different ones till you find one that feels right. Also be aware that good quality socks will make a big difference.

As an aside there may be situations that a good hiking boot may be what will work best.

having two pairs of boots is nice as they can be alternated every day and allowed to dry out.
 
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   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #7  
Looking for some recommendations for a do it all, take it all boots. I have 83 acres, most is mountain terrain. I have to cut trees/logs, hike up steep mountainsides, use the tractor, shovel trench, and trek through heavy woody brush. I try not to work in the hot summer, but sometimes I need to; fire season. Dirt is really powdery and dusty, I deal with stickers, rocks, some mud but not a lot. The woody brush seems to be the biggest obstacle and issue for the lifespan of my boots.


Never mind the boots. Will you marry me? (Just kidding)

I have a pair of Redwing western boots I bought in 1988. After retiring as dress boots I used them for work boots for 20+ years. They are still wearable.

My wife picked up a pair of women's Red Head boots at the free shed at our dump a few years back. They are a little snug on me but have been my go to work boots for several years. They were made in china though.
 
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   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #8  
Whites or Nicks all the way for the work you describe. I have two sets of Whites, wore on set for seven years before they needed a rebuild and got the second before I sent the first ones off because I couldn't stand the thought of being without them. You'll spend the money up front but you wont be replacing Danners or whatever every other year either and rebuilds are cheap.
 
   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #9  
If you are real serious about the best footwear, skip all the throwaway stuff. Get some USA or Canadian leather work boots made to order. They will last you a lifetime and become your heavyweight best friend and protect you.

Smoker jumpers and firefighters pretty much go with Nick or White, Viberg, period. Or they wish they had. Anything else including Redwing is just a substitute. Find a local agent for one of the aforementioned and have THEM measure you up so any mistake in ordering is not on you. Once you have a true boot you will know that anything less is just that.
 
   / Shopping: Boots for mountainside work. Womens boots. #10  
I just need a good boot.
No, you do not. You probably need 3 pair of "good boot".
Most leather boots are not great for a quick job in the mud, mixing concrete etc. One needs a rubber boot for that. Something easy to clean. Muck makes a great boot for that. But since you probably only need that protection for rare, short periods a good $25 boot from Walmart will do.

As suggested a good logger boot with a steel (or dent proof) toe is essential. There's nothing like looking down at your boot that's just been smashed by a several hundred pound section of log and thinking "Darn, glad I got steel toes".

And then something for the rest of the time. White and Nicks seem the most talked about but here's another recent thread:
linky
 

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