Should this be cover under warranty?

[turbojerk]

Should this be cover under warranty?

There's a nice size stress crack started on the front of my GT2554 around the latch area of the "high-impact" ABS hood and apparently its been getting worse. The only reason that I finally noticed it was because the crack has finally migrated to the outside front edge where it's visible (see 1st pic). I've never hit anything with the tractor and to be honest I'm not real sure that it wasn't initially there when I bought it since there was other damage done to it during shipping as well.

I only have 42hrs on this tractor and it's less than 1 year/mowing season old. I'm sure if I left it go for this upcoming mowing season it will crack completely thru to the bottom.

Any input would be appreciated!!

Thanks
Troy

 

[Superclyde007]

I am sure Cub would cover that under warranty.

 

[MrJimi]

I had a crack similar to that on my ( plastic cowl/hood ) and I sanded it and epoxied it and it was gone. It happens when your tractor goes over uneven ground, it flexes and twist and thats what causes it.
If your dealer does replace it, it will happen again.
I'm sorry to give you the sad news but they will flex and twist, cars and trucks do it all the time.
I had a Corvette with T tops and I would drive with my arm on door edge and fingers at top and body mount just behind the top and flex it did. You can experience this with a metal vehicle with the door seams with your finger on them when you ride down the road or enter a driveway you will feel it move and maybe pinch your finger, be careful.
Now, how many members are going to ride with a finger on a seam today. Just kidding
Jim

 

[CCinCT]

It should be covered under warranty. There was a recall/service bulletin out for the 2006 year 2500 hood latch: the mounting of the latch would slowly fail, allowing the hood's closed position to slowly become higher and higher. This could eventually lead to the exhaust being partially covered by the hood, and possibly melting. I don't know whether Cub's solution was a redesigned latch, a redesigned mounting configuration, or both. But in my case my dealer replaced the hood and latch even though there were no signs of wear. And yes, this was covered under warranty.

 

[TractorLarry]

Back when I was busting tires for Firestone (in the mid 70's) it was a firing offense to raise a Vette on a lift without first opening the doors for this very reason.

-Larry

I had a crack similar to that on my ( plastic cowl/hood ) and I sanded it and epoxied it and it was gone. It happens when your tractor goes over uneven ground, it flexes and twist and thats what causes it.
If your dealer does replace it, it will happen again.
I'm sorry to give you the sad news but they will flex and twist, cars and trucks do it all the time.
I had a Corvette with T tops and I would drive with my arm on door edge and fingers at top and body mount just behind the top and flex it did. You can experience this with a metal vehicle with the door seams with your finger on them when you ride down the road or enter a driveway you will feel it move and maybe pinch your finger, be careful.
Now, how many members are going to ride with a finger on a seam today. Just kidding
Jim

 

[Fordlords]

The wonders of plastic hoods and why everyone uses them. Sure scratches in them don't rust. Yet it is a rare occurrance to see a used lawn/garden tractor out there with a plastic or fiberglass hood that doesn't have a crack or break or two in it somewhere. Give me metal with a few rusted scratches any day (Ok, those days are long gone, I know, back to reality.)

I'm sure Cub will replace that cracked hood under warranty. BTW, how have you made out with that lifter noise problem TJ? -Fordlords-

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Hopefully you can get it replaced under warranty. If not, the secret to stopping any crack (plastic or metal) from speading is to drill a small hole at each end of the crack. That will relieve the stress and stop the crack. You can then choose some way to repair it.

Bob B.

 

[turbojerk]

Hopefully you can get it replaced under warranty. If not, the secret to stopping any crack (plastic or metal) from speading is to drill a small hole at each end of the crack. That will relieve the stress and stop the crack. You can then choose some way to repair it.

Bob B.

Ya know I would have done that if I would have cought it sooner....

The Cub dealer is ordering the replacement hood for me tomorrow, so it's all good. I'm really glad to see that CC stands behind thier machines.

 

[turbojerk]

BTW, how have you made out with that lifter noise problem TJ? -Fordlords-

Kohler replaced the short block under warranty. It's much quitter now, but there is still some of the noise present.

I'm not so sure that the problem with the noisy lifters doesn't have something to do with that mechanical fuel pump that's driven by the rockers. It's gotta be putting extra load on the lifter at idle and the noise on both motors has been on the same side as the fuel pump. I'm half tempted to remove it and try running the motor with auxiliary fuel source to see it the noise completely stops...Personally I think it will. Why they decided to run a mechanical fuel pump off of the valve train is beyond me......

T

 

[Fordlords]

I would consider the fuel pump noise to be normal, most mechanical fuel pumps are driven off of a cam lobe. The Honda engine I am using on my Cub has a Mikuni mechanical pump on the left side of the engine, and when the engine is at idle I can hear a little noise from it, or should I say the normal noise of it doing its thing. Most Kohler Command twins I have heard are actually quieter than the Honda. -Fordlords-