/ Shredder, Rotary Mower, Bush Hog or whatever you want to call it. Question on stump jumper removal on tapered spline shaft
#1
Fastowl
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2013
- Messages
- 55
- Location
- Texas Hill Country, TX
- Tractor
- 1980 JD 2240; 2018 JD 5075E; 2011 Bobcat S650; 2019 Kubota RTV 1140
Long time reader and commentator, first post.
Background: I have a 6 foot Bush Hog BH16 I bought new over a decade ago. Used it on my JD 2240 and now my JD 5075E for the first time. Hadn't had enough rain in last few years to justify getting it out. Its been banged up a lot in the Texas Hill Country hitting big rocks, stumps, etc. A few years ago I had new blades and stump jumper installed by a dealer as I could not get the old ones off. And then it sat behind the barn awaiting rain and growth. This year we are coming out of the drought (got about 4 3/4 inches of rain about a week ago, yea!) so I hooked it up to my 5075E and shredded for about 15 machine hours. Had some vibration at first but now I have some real vibration. The upper deck is now cracked under the gear box in a few places so I was planning on pulling the gear box off, rewelding the cracks and adding some reinforing steel.
Now: Got one of the blades off the stump jumper but the second one has an issue that the end of the jumper is curled back. I can't get a socket on the nut. No big deal, I can do some surgery after I pull the stump jumper off the tapered spline shaft running from the gear box. Riigghhtt. Also checked to see if here was any side to side play between the stump jumper and gear box and it all looks good.
The usual issues are cropping up in getting the jumper to 'release' from the shaft (I got the nut off easily enough). Having flipped over the shredder I have been using heat (until I ran out of MAPP), wedges, penetrating oil and pry bars but no luck so far. Looking on line and talking to dealer service managers, they had one option that I haven't tried yet from their usual go to's and one option that I can't find anyone has tried that I can find.
Option 1: Use my oxy/acetylene rosebud to heat it faster/better (I was worried about too much heat that way, but one dealer swears by it) and a part B (optional) was to spray the outer splines with a blast from a freon refill can while still hot to get a rapid temperature drop on the outer portion. Problem is that there is a high likelihood of cracking the toothed spline by the rapid chilling by doing Part B.
Option 2: This one intrigues me. Using an induction heating coil to rapidly heat the shaft. I see them used in videos often to remove rusty bolts, etc., I'm just not sure if this is the right application. Has anyone tried an induction heater for this application?
Any thoughts, comments? Waste of time? Looking forward to learned comments and opinions.
Background: I have a 6 foot Bush Hog BH16 I bought new over a decade ago. Used it on my JD 2240 and now my JD 5075E for the first time. Hadn't had enough rain in last few years to justify getting it out. Its been banged up a lot in the Texas Hill Country hitting big rocks, stumps, etc. A few years ago I had new blades and stump jumper installed by a dealer as I could not get the old ones off. And then it sat behind the barn awaiting rain and growth. This year we are coming out of the drought (got about 4 3/4 inches of rain about a week ago, yea!) so I hooked it up to my 5075E and shredded for about 15 machine hours. Had some vibration at first but now I have some real vibration. The upper deck is now cracked under the gear box in a few places so I was planning on pulling the gear box off, rewelding the cracks and adding some reinforing steel.
Now: Got one of the blades off the stump jumper but the second one has an issue that the end of the jumper is curled back. I can't get a socket on the nut. No big deal, I can do some surgery after I pull the stump jumper off the tapered spline shaft running from the gear box. Riigghhtt. Also checked to see if here was any side to side play between the stump jumper and gear box and it all looks good.
The usual issues are cropping up in getting the jumper to 'release' from the shaft (I got the nut off easily enough). Having flipped over the shredder I have been using heat (until I ran out of MAPP), wedges, penetrating oil and pry bars but no luck so far. Looking on line and talking to dealer service managers, they had one option that I haven't tried yet from their usual go to's and one option that I can't find anyone has tried that I can find.
Option 1: Use my oxy/acetylene rosebud to heat it faster/better (I was worried about too much heat that way, but one dealer swears by it) and a part B (optional) was to spray the outer splines with a blast from a freon refill can while still hot to get a rapid temperature drop on the outer portion. Problem is that there is a high likelihood of cracking the toothed spline by the rapid chilling by doing Part B.
Option 2: This one intrigues me. Using an induction heating coil to rapidly heat the shaft. I see them used in videos often to remove rusty bolts, etc., I'm just not sure if this is the right application. Has anyone tried an induction heater for this application?
Any thoughts, comments? Waste of time? Looking forward to learned comments and opinions.
