Shuttle Shift vs Creeper Gear

[mitchash]

When I was looking at new Jinmas at a dealer this weekend, I noticed they all had shuttle shift except an older demo model that had an extra low range, no shuttle shift. They told me they are only getting the shuttle shift models. What would be better? I am planning on using the tractor for loader work, plowing the garden, brush cutting, snow removal, moving dirt and gravel, making ATV trails, moving brush, etc. Is there a way to add a creeper gear to a shuttle shift model? Thanks, Ash

 

[greg_g]

The current design is such that the case can only hold one set of gears, creeper or shuttle - not both. But with a little ingenuity, I'll bet you could buy a shuttle shift - then replace 1st gear with a granny low.

None of the applications you listed indicate a need for the creeper box though. I guess it's popular in the Chinese rice paddys, but over here it's use is pretty much limited to activities like roto-tilling.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

When I was shopping for mine, I asked the very same question as my nearest dealer was only ordering the shuttle shifts. I use my tractor as well as other tractors I have worked with over the years, for a little bit of everything you described(and a few you didn't and I personally wouldn't be without the creeper range of gears. I use 1-2 Low Low(creeper) for most of my brush busting with a 5' rotary cutter. Since the engine is running at full rated PTO RPM to power the cutter, your only control of speed is with the gears. In thick brush, and particularly on uneven terrain, going too fast can be real bad. The brush and tree stalks/trunks and stumps sometimes get where you don't want them and you can tear things up on the tractor or mower very quickly. Also hidden depressions and rises can pretty quickly turn what was an acceptable lean angle into an unacceptable one. It is good to be able to approach these things slowly and have a slow enough speed to be able to stop things before they get serious.

Your maximum traction force is applied at the slowest wheel speed. The ag tires need a little time for the tread teeth to depress into the soil, force it outward and get a bite. If you have too much wheel speed, the tires don't get a chance to bite and will spin. In creeper, when you come up against something that won't move, you can stop the tractor before the tires really start to dig in and do a lot of damage that you will have to smooth out.

Lastly, the creeper is great for fine positioning. A few weeks ago, I was confidently able to creep up and bring the Front End Loader with a new pellet stove setting in it, up to within a 1/4" of the threshold of my front door. I then shifted the stove from the FEL bucket to a dolly without lifting it. I just used it this last weekend to swap pickup beds between 2 trucks I am working on. The creeper allows that fine positioning and time to assess the situation before something goes crunch. It is also pretty handy for placing the post hole auger right on the mark.

If I was going to be doing a lot of loader work moving from pile A to pile B on level ground, or mow already cleared land, a shuttle's ease of shifting and higher reverse speed would probably be more desireable to me. For what I have to do, the creeper was the better choice for me.

 

[billbill1]

I do the exact same stuff that you want to do. I have the shuttle shift and wouldn't trade for the creeper gear tractor. For loader work, the shuttle shift can't be beat. I don't have a 3ph tiller so that isn't a problem for me. It's all in what you want I guess. Good luck with whatever you wind up with.

 

[SPIKER]

this is one of the issues that have been debated pretty good in the past I suggest searching for them and going back over OLD posts, same info

anyhow if you plann on tilling land, with roto tiller a non-shuttle is needed, also for land leveling and busting new ground. if you are mowing & FEL work in open areas shuttle is way to go.

mark M

 

[billbill1]

I've used mine to level land and to plow with (2-14" plows) without any problems, I haven't tried a tiller though.

 

[MrFixit]

I'm quite happy with first gear (Low Range) of my KAMA 354C Shuttle Shift. If it was any lower I would be going in REVERSE!

I do have occasional difficulty getting the bugger into any of the gears when the tranny is in Low range. Shifting gears is much easier in High range.

Anybody else notice a difference between Low and High range shifting ease?


If given a Third choice, I'd trade my shuttle shift for a syncronized tranny!

 

[3RRL]

No difference on mine. After changing the tranny gear oil to 85/140 it "glides' into gear.

 

[MrFixit]

Rob,

I'm presently running 85/140. I think you hve a totally different tranny though. According to Chip's Web Site you have a constant mesh and mine is Spur gear.

When in Low range and Between gears it feels as if shaft on the Tranny side of the clutch is allowed to spin, even though clutch pedal is depressed. Because the Tranny shaft is still spinning the gears want to Grind before engaging. It also feels as if shaft is spinning much faster when in Low range.
The Clutch feels properly adjusted as there is only a small amount of Free Play at top of travel. If nobody else is experiencing this than I might try a bit tighter clutch adjustment. Don't want to ride on the throw out bearing though.

Tim

 

[kidney]

Tim After you adjust the free play on the pedal to an inch take the inspection plate off the right side of the bell housing and check the release levers distances to the throw out bearing. In your tractor operation manual pages 22-24 will help. It would be a good time to grease the throw out bearing too. I think your release levers need adjustment. There is a write up somewhere about the release lever adjustments. I just don't know where. Probably John's website. I have a ts354c and after adjusting the levers it shift good just some times I need to release the clutch a little to line up the gears. Kidney