SICKEL BAR SITUATION

[antny760]

WE HAVE A FIRST CHOICE 7 FOOT SICKEL BAR, THICK GRASS WILL BIND UP THE TEETH WHEN CUTTING HAVE TO STOP CLEAN SICKEL BAR. PUT IN NEW BLADE THAT WAS GETTING JAMMED WITH GRASS. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

 

[MikeInEburg]

Although it has been 25+ years since using a sickle bar, I used to simply back up a foot or so, allowing the backward motion to clear clogged grass.

Also - FYI, ALL CAPS is considered yelling. We can hear you fine without yelling. Thanks.

 

[ToadHill]

In my experience sickle bar mowers work better if the grass is less than 1 foot high.

 

[Egon]

Is the bar sharp?

Are the ledger plates in good condition?

Are the tangs holding down the bar adjusted properly?

Will slowing down help the situation?

What type of grass?

How high are you cutting?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

From the sound of things, my first impression would be loose "hold down clips". Next, dull sections and/or worn ledger plates. SOME sickle bars mow better with angle of attack adjusted different. (ie longer or shorter on the top link) Dpending on what you're mowing speed can play a factor. I've always found TOO SLOW to have more problems than SLIGHTLY too fast. I've cut alfalfa that was 3-1/2' tall without any issues. BUT...the taller, the faster I needed to move along to get it to fall right. SOME brands/models have adjustable pulleys so you can speed up or slow down cutter speed while remaining at 540rpm on the pto (OR, keep cutter bar at proper speed relative to 540rpm pto speed with rpms actually slower than that.) I like to keep cutter bar speed at or above "normal" for 540 rpm pto.

 

[BWBrown]

There is quite a bit of room for adjustment on the bar - the rock guards, shims, all move around. You can even bend the rock guards if necessary. Look closely at the junction between cutter knife and the shear plate on the rock guard. (The shear plate is replacable, but it is far easier to replace the whole guard.)

They have the shear the grass like a scissors - if there is too much clearance between them, they will just clog up instead of cutting.

Is it clogging in the middle, or out on the end? If the end by the guard shoe, you can always add a half tooth knife at the end of the cutter bar - less loading up of uncut grass.

Also consider a serrated edge cutter knives instead of smooth edge - difference of night and day.

I've rehabbed several old sickle bars - I do quite a little mowing with a team of horses - slow speed requires tip top cutter condition.
First steps always include a new cutter knife assembly and all new rock guards/shear plates. I always add the half knife at the end, and always pay close attention to the adjustment or each knife/guard.
We also need to remember that every old mower came with an oil can in what appears to new fangled folks to be a beverage/cup holder.
Any teamster in the know would dribble oil of the bar about every other time around the field.

Persistence will reap reward.
Bob

 

[antny760]

My apologies on the caps, thank s to all for the information.

 

[stowester]

Also check for wear on pitman arm connections (if not pitmanless). Problems there will prevent the full motion back and forth causing plugs.

Dean

 

[nomad]

An extra advice (some says so): use silicon spray on the blade before starting cutting. Does it work? Not sure. Some claims it helps some.

By the way, what's advice of seller, First Choice? (Still Pieter?)