3-Point Hitch Sickle Bar Mower

[Creamer]

A NH451 will run in any position, up, down, it doesn't matter, it will even run in transport position like this,

SR

Nice looking mower! Mine is about the same except it is a trailer type - model 455. I didn't want the one-sided weight on my tractor since I am mowing pond edge and it is steep enough for me without having more cantilevered weight out there.

 

[MH8675309]

Mine is an NH model 45 - an older one. It has no lift and hangs out by gravity with the foot following the contour of the ground. It might run vertical but would flap around - not a safe way for me to run it.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I use mine to mow around my ponds all the time, I just use a big enough tractor that I don't have to worry about tipping. When the mower is down, much of the weight in on the ground too, so not too bad of a side load... Being on the 3 point, makes it very easy to back up and work around and between tree's and I like that...

I also made a bracket to hold the bar vertical, and I drive down my lanes, cutting all the limbs that grow out into it... Works pretty good!

SR

 

[LukeD]

I've got a Ford 501. It gets the job done, but there's no comparison to a disc mower. I'll be upgrading to a disc mower as soon as possible. I bought it starting out for $600, so I can't complain.

 

[newbury]

Looking at the new NH 451 &456 it states the cutter bar is to be used

15 degrees below horizontal, 35 degrees above horizontal

Hay-and-Forage-Equipment New Holland Sicklebar-Mowers - Models, technical data and characteristics

 

[Creamer]

I use mine to mow around my ponds all the time, I just use a big enough tractor that I don't have to worry about tipping. When the mower is down, much of the weight in on the ground too, so not too bad of a side load... Being on the 3 point, makes it very easy to back up and work around and between tree's and I like that...

I also made a bracket to hold the bar vertical, and I drive down my lanes, cutting all the limbs that grow out into it... Works pretty good!

SR

I am not recognizing the tractor you show it on. It certainly looks large enough that the mower weight is insignificant. My 1710 isn't that big.

 

[Creamer]

Looking at the new NH 451 &456 it states the cutter bar is to be used
Hay-and-Forage-Equipment New Holland Sicklebar-Mowers - Models, technical data and characteristics

There are recommendations and then there is what you can do. Mine flops down along a pond bank at a negative 50 degrees and as Sawyer Rob has stated it will run in the transport position. I sure would not do the things I do with this mower with a disk mower - they throw things too much and are not worth a dam under water. It all depends on what you want to use the machine for. My brother thought i was crazy for wanting on old dump rake from the farm but he was happy to get rid of it. It does a great job of picking up the willow twigs that blow off some of the trees surrounding my pond - my old back appreciates every time I hook onto it.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I am not recognizing the tractor you show it on. It certainly looks large enough that the mower weight is insignificant. My 1710 isn't that big.

I've had it on several different tractors, from a 2850 Kubota on up... In the pict., it's on a 30hp Deutz...

SR

 

[Creamer]

That looks a lot bigger than 30 hp. What model is that?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

30-06, It looks bigger because it's a FARM tractor, not a compact tractor...

SR

 

[newbury]

Since this is the latest sickle bar mower thread I've a couple of questions specifically about belt driven mowers -
What are the major failure points?
In looking at used mowers what should I be looking for?

I'm mainly wanting it for clearing banks on the roadside too steep for my brush hog and trying to use it vertical for "trimming" trails.

 

[Creamer]

Not really a lot to fail on the belt driven mowers other than the belt - but they can look pretty rough and still run a long time - and the wobble mechanism. So for me the wobble mechanism is the big item. If it is a gearbox like on the IH mowers check for tightness and certainly swab the bottom of the gearbox to check for metallic filings. If it is a wobble mechanism like the NH or New Idea check tightness - including the connection to the sickle. The only other thing is the condition of the cutter bar -if it is bent, twisted, or seriously hit you may want to walk away.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I haven't found a weak point in the NH451, everything except teeth is still original......and it still works like new. I just keep it greased and use it...

SR

 

[flusher]

Yep--wobble box and cutter bar can be problems. Fortunately the wobble box on that MF31 7-ft sicklebar that I bought was OK. But the cutter bar was a mess. I had to replace it--not that expensive but time consuming.

 

[Creamer]

Yep--wobble box and cutter bar can be problems. Fortunately the wobble box on that MF31 7-ft sicklebar that I bought was OK. But the cutter bar was a mess. I had to replace it--not that expensive but time consuming.

Are you talking about the cutter bar (the main bar) or the sickle (the cutting device)? the main cutter bar can be difficult to find but the sickle is no big deal - I built a new one for just over $100 and about 90 minutes of time.

I have to agree with Sawyer Rob - if the wobble mechanism on the NH is tight and you grease it regularly it should never be a problem. Part of my concern with the IH gearbox is that I store it outside and if it gets moisture in it the gears can be ruined and I would never know it until it was too late. However the IH 1900 strokes/minute vs. the NH and New Idea 1700 strokes/minute definitely makes a difference in cutting speed but if you are not using it that much this is no big deal.

 

[flusher]

Just the bar that carries the sickle sections. I did what you you did, but it took me most of the morning to drill a bunch of holes for the sections. I paid less than $10 for the 7-ft piece of steel bar.

 

[Creamer]

Just the bar that carries the sickle sections. I did what you you did, but it took me most of the morning to drill a bunch of holes for the sections. I paid less than $10 for the 7-ft piece of steel bar.

Yeah. I just bought a new piece with the holes in it for $30, took the driver head off the old one and riveted on all new sections and the old head.