Siding Screw Up, What would you do?

[Gem99ultra]

Hawkinshollow, I suspect that IF you had them remove the siding, cut it down, and re-install it, that would have been a real mess. Not only would they probably not made straight cuts, but you'd end up with a bunch of broken or cracked siding.
All said and done, I think you came out much better accepting the 7" siding and discount.

 

[Panik]

Anyway, just venting. What would you have done?

So, I read the first page and skipped ahead....Apologies if I missed anything. For what it's worth it should have been done the way you spec'ed and I would have come around to the same decisions as you did. As someone else mentioned on this thread, 10-15 years ago I would have been pushing for a complete redo.... I think I'm a bit older, maybe wiser, and hopefully slightly more level headed. In any case, I'm glad you were able to get a discount and that the contractor seemed to want to end on a positive note with you.

Hopefully you have a different perspective, but there is something I've noticed about home repair/renovation contractors in NW GA/SW TN (I'm excluding HVAC/Plumbing/Electrical here). Having moved from the Tampa, FL metro area 12 years ago, it feels like it is very hard to find good and reliable contractors in our area. In my experience the really good ones are either:

- Focusing on commercial clients
- Booked out to the point of providing the "I'm too backed up" price
- Unreliable due to it being their 2nd retirement gig & just as apt to bail on an appointment to go fishing.

I'm to the point that unless it's electrical/HVAC or otherwise an "emergency" I'd rather eat the time, do it myself and live with the idea that it might take me 6 months to get it done. As it stands right now I've been sitting for 6 months on a mudroom+half bath that I got partway through remodeling because I've had to prioritize other projects.

Heck the reason for that remodel is a perfect example of what I'm talking about regarding contractors up this way. Whoever built our home installed ALL of the toilet flanges well below the finished floor height and double stacked the wax rings.

 

[grsthegreat]

Wait, did you really caulk the overlap joint? I don't think that is the intent with hardi. Verticals, and butt joints yes, horizontal, no, unless I either misunderstood you, or miss understood Mr James Hardi.

As for the part about painting 6 sides; you can get repainted hardi, but, to me, it's more of a primer.

I also think the older grey hardi board was better than the new yellowish hardi; like they reduced the amount of Portland cement in the recipe?

When i installed mine in 1996, it was recommended to caulk every joint, every one. If you didnt the individual panels could lift. Its 28 years later, never had any issues.

 

[EddieWalker]

Did you post a picture of the siding and it's not showing up on my screen?

There are two sizes of Hardie lap siding to chose from. 8.25" is the most common, but there is also a 6.25" The bigger is installed with a 7 inch exposed, the smaller has 5 inches showing.

Did you provide them with the siding, or did they go buy it at the store and did they buy the wrong size?

The biggest mistake made on most houses with Hardie and LP Smart siding is installing it too close to the shingles. Just guessing, I think they require a 2 inch gap above the shingles. If there isn't a gap, water will destroy both products in a short amount of time.