SlashBuster

[J_J]

I want one of these for my PT.

"SLASHBUSTER"® Videos, Brush Cutter and Stump Grinder action

Check out the tree and automobile shreading

 

[woodlandfarms]

The sell the teeth for those things. Wonder what you could make up on your own? Crazy piece of equipment. I want to build one....

The thing I am quite impressed by is how close the cameraman gets. I can tell the head on shot they set the camera and ran, but the side shots are in tight and hand held... Ouch...

 

[Barryh]

I want one of these for my PT.

"SLASHBUSTER"® Videos, Brush Cutter and Stump Grinder action

Check out the tree and automobile shreading

Hmmm we could use that here in WV sneak in while people are at work, and shred up some of these rusting old junked cars setting around in their yards. Would help clean up the neighborhood. That is one scary looking monster.

 

[bbabineau]

Hmmm we could use that here in WV sneak in while people are at work, and shred up some of these rusting old junked cars setting around in their yards. Would help clean up the neighborhood. That is one scary looking monster.

Happened to note that the shredder spins to throw the debris back at the host machine. I believe this is the way the PT shredder works, although I do not have one. Many comments on this site seem to imply that it should be shooting the debris forward (away from the PT) and some owners are reversing the direction of the wheel. Does this video agree with the PT concept?

 

[J_J]

Happened to note that the shredder spins to throw the debris back at the host machine. I believe this is the way the PT shredder works, although I do not have one. Many comments on this site seem to imply that it should be shooting the debris forward (away from the PT) and some owners are reversing the direction of the wheel. Does this video agree with the PT concept?

Somewhere in their web site, it says that the shroud is adjustable. So if it is, you would adjust the shroud to block most of the debris from the operator. I will bet that he has a beefed up windscreen/windshield.

 

[J_J]

Somewhere in their web site, it says that the shroud is adjustable. So if it is, you would adjust the shroud to block most of the debris from the operator. I will bet that he has a beefed up windscreen/windshield.

As far as rotation goes on the stump grinder, I think people are going to do what they want anyway no matter what the other guy is doing. From different people that I have talked to, if it throws dirt and wood chips at them, they will change the rotation. If they think that is the gospel, they will tell every one which way to set up the rotation.

There are several different concepts here that one could analyze.

1. Top of blade spinning away from the operator, and starting at the front of the stump the blade will cut from the top chewing down into the stump. Might have some bounce there.

2. Blade spinning away from the operator, and starting on the far side of the stump. The blade now cuts from the bottom , up. Stump is between the blade and the operator

3. Reverse rotation, top of blade spinning back toward operator. Starting at the front side. The blade will cut from the bottom, up.

4. Reverse rotation, top of blade spinning back to operator. Starting of the far side, the blade will cut from the top, down. Stump is between the blade and operator.

5. No matter what the rotation, some people will start in the center of the stump and grind ever which way. to get the stump ground up.

What one should be thinking about is practicality, efficiency, where time is money. and safety. Most of the larger machines have shields that the operator stands behind, so apparently, chips fly every which way.

If it cuts good and throws most of the chips away from you, I would say that is good.
If it cuts good and throws chips back against a shroud, I would say that is good.
If it is cutting good but you are getting blasted with chips and dirt, I would say , not good. A change is in order.

So who is right, don't know, just do what you have to , using some common since.

I think all stump grinders have carbide teeth, and they should be sharp, with the back side having a slight taper. You can sharpen them your self, or buy some new or refurbished teeth.

A smaller machine with sharp teeth, will cut better than a larger machine. with dull teeth.

A lot of people fail to consider the height of the stump. They just grind away, but if you take a good sharp chainsaw and reduce the height of the stump. I think you will be ahead in the stump grinding process.

 

[Rivco]

Happened to note that the shredder spins to throw the debris back at the host machine. I believe this is the way the PT shredder works, although I do not have one. Many comments on this site seem to imply that it should be shooting the debris forward (away from the PT) and some owners are reversing the direction of the wheel. Does this video agree with the PT concept?

Yes the discharge shoot is to the rear of the grinder but I'm willing to bet that the blade is mounted to rotate like a blade on a circular saw forcing the chips forward and up around the blade just like a circular saw!!. Otherwise how would the chips follow up over the grinder and discharge down through the shoot??. ( that is if it's even is a shoot.. it might just be a deflector, it's hard to tell from the picture ).
After I reversed my cutter blade it is rotating the same way now. If I enclosed the blade and created a shoot it might discharge the chips and debris to the rear in the same manner, ...just like a giant circular saw!! It would be a controlled discharge unlike PT's OEM direction of rotation.... throwing chips and debris in all directions including all over the operator. Any way, reversing the blade works better for my needs, some other stump grinder owners might prefer to keep it in the OEM configuration.. which is fine.. to each their own!!. If power trac put a warning label on the stump grinder -stating that reversing the blade puts stress on the 4 wimpy little 1/4"x20 bolts ( I'll have to check the bolts to confirm the size ) holding the blade hub onto the motor I would never have reversed the blade. Also why would power trac chamfer the lug bolt holes on both sides of the blade ( 180 blade! ) if it was a safety issue??.

 

[SpringHollow]

Hi JJ,

I just ground up 9 stumps yesterday for a friend. I got my PT stump grinder used so I do not know how sharp the teeth should be. I commented that they seemed dull to me. He said they probably are as sharp as new and that you can not sharpen them because they are carbide. I thought I could hone them with a diamond stone.

They do not feel sharp like a normal cutting tool (saw blade, etc.). Should they?

Another basic question: the hydraulic motor has a small leak. Seams to be coming from the seal closest to the blade. Sometimes it leaks with almost no break between drops. Other times, it seems not to be leaking at all. Does this seem like it needs to be repaired right away or can it be used some more? I hate to dump a lot of money into an occasional use item but at the same time I do not want to totally ruin an expensive piece of equipment. If a fitting were slowly leaking, one can decide when they want to fix it but I doubt I have the luxury of doing that in this case.

By the way, let me know if this is considered hijacking a thread so I know if it is appropriate in the future.

Thanks,

Ken

 

[J_J]

Hi J,

I just ground up 9 stumps yesterday for a friend. I got my PT stump grinder used so I do not know how sharp the teeth should be. I commented that they seemed dull to me. He said they probably are as sharp as new and that you can not sharpen them because they are carbide. I thought I could hone them with a diamond stone.

They do not feel sharp like a normal cutting tool (saw blade, etc.). Should they?

Another basic question: the hydraulic motor has a small leak. Seams to be coming from the seal closest to the blade. Sometimes it leaks with almost no break between drops. Other times, it seems not to be leaking at all. Does this seem like it needs to be repaired right away or can it be used some more? I hate to dump a lot of money into an occasional use item but at the same time I do not want to totally ruin an expensive piece of equipment. If a fitting were slowly leaking, one can decide when they want to fix it but I doubt I have the luxury of doing that in this case.

By the way, let me know if this is considered hijacking a thread so I know if it is appropriate in the future.

Thanks,

Ken

No hijack here, we are still talking about stump grinders and hydraulics.

Yes you can sharpen carbide teeth, as I mentioned in another post. The cutting edge should be sharp, and the sides should be tapered toward the rear. If the front edge feels smooth, they need sharpened

On the hydraulic leak, it sounds minor, the seal is leaking a little bit. I would let it go for a while until it gets worse, and starts making a mess.

As far as cost to repair, I don't think it will cost you nothing but an o-ring plus your time. I would go ahead and order the o-ring in case it blows out at the wrong time. If you know who makes the hydraulic motor, you can get it from the local hydraulic shop. Even if you have to take it to a hydraulic shop, if they don't have the part, they might have one that will fit and they can put it on a test bench and check it out. Cost would be the price of the o-ring plus shop labor.

 

[BobRip]

If you continue to use the stump grinder with it leaking monitor your hydraulic fluid level often. You will be surprised how fast you can loose fluid and maybe damage a pump. It is sometimes difficult to see the leak when the stump grinder is buried in the saw dust and stump. I got my tank so low the unit would not power the stump grinder anymore. There was no apparent damage, but why risk it for the cost of a seal and a little labor.