Slip clutch woes

[5030tinkerer]

I've never messed with a slip clutch before, but know that you are supposed to decrease the pressure between the plates and slip it before retorqueing and using the implement if it had been sitting awhile.

I went to do that on my relatively new to me LandPride Power Rake, following the directions I downloaded from their website, and promptly snapped one of the studs on the thrust plate clean off - with a 1/4" ratchet...

So, I figure that it must have been pretty well rusted or perhaps I just didn't get the concept of "tightening the nuts uniformly".

Here's the question - any reason I cannot replace the stud using a tap and die set rather than handing over $80 to the dealer for a new plate?

Also, is there some alternate source for replacement friction material pads? $47 for each of the two of them seems high as well.

The attachments may help tell the story.

 

[Egon]

Tap and die should work.

Plates ???

 

[5030tinkerer]

Yeah, I was liking the tape and die idea too. I am toying with the idea of going grade 8 on the replacement so long as I am in there and maybe even replacing what's now there on the other three so I don't have to jack with this again (at least for a bit...).

The referred to "plate" is just LandPride's name for the round thingy that the four studs are attached to.

I'm not looking forward to getting this apart without the benefit of all four corners pulling those plates together though. Maybe I could use some vice grips or something to help out. We'll see.

 

[Egon]

The referred to "plate" is just LandPride's name for the round thingy that the four studs are attached to.

I must apologies. I did not read your post properly. For some reason I was thinking of the slip clutch plates that slid over each other.

 

[5030tinkerer]

No apology necessary! I was just thankful for the response. Only one remaining question - is there a better place to get replacement friction discs than the LandPride dealer? 80 bucks for a pair of discs seems high.

 

[KML]

Without knowing the dimensions I don't know if they have what you need but it's a start. Hope it helps,
$18 ea PTO Parts


No prices listed but good diagrams and info. https://www.allpartsstore.com/Searc...n=&SelcModel=&SelcSectn=DRIV&SelcSubsc=DRV005

 

[MikeD74T]

Assuming the plate is about 1/4" thick you won't get many threads for the stud. Are the originals welded? If so drill out the broken stud, insert another, and plug weld the end. MikeD74T

 

[5030tinkerer]

Assuming the plate is about 1/4" thick you won't get many threads for the stud. Are the originals welded? If so drill out the broken stud, insert another, and plug weld the end. MikeD74T

I haven't yet taken this thing apart to see, but it seems likely that the studs are welded in there. When you say that I should "plug weld" the end, do you mean welding the end of the stud at the other side of the plate so that it stays put after I thread it in?

 

[5030tinkerer]

Without knowing the dimensions I don't know if they have what you need but it's a start. Hope it helps,
$18 ea PTO Parts

That's a GREAT link. Thanks! One thing I've noted is that many other slip clutches seem to have six or more spring bolts for the slip adjustment, but that mine only has four. Any concerns there?

 

[kthompson]

If you have the clearance to, run a bolt from the back side and tighten it to the plate. That should be good. kt

 

[5030tinkerer]

I've had a chance to look at this a bit, and cannot for the life of me determine an "easy" method to remove the slip clutch assembly for service. Basically, until I get that assembly out and serviced, my slip clutch won't be a clutch at all and I am risking hurting something major in the driveline.

By chance, any LandPride Power Rake users out there that have done this before?

Seemingly, you'd have to remove the gearbox (!) to get the slip clutch off. Since this gearbox transfers the rotational force 90 degrees, even removing it won't be a guarantee that things will come apart as two different shafts enter it (one inline to the main PTO shaft and the other 90 degrees offset to the chain drive assembly).

I'll try to post better pics later today of precisely what I talking about, but hopefully what I've got here will help at least a bit.

 

[5030tinkerer]

Found a diagram...

 

[john_bud]

There is just a keeper bolt on the side of the splined end on the attachement. Take that bolt out, and tap the whole slip clutch forward and out. No big deal.

 

[5030tinkerer]

Landpride uses a spring-loaded casing holding ball bearings into the shaft area - same concept as the keeper bolt. Pulling that casing back allows the slip clutch and the smallish shaft that it is on to slide forward, but not enough to clear the splines of the gearbox before bottoming out on the other set of splines in the front.

I suppose tomorrow I will try to work it a bit harder, but it may well be that that gearbox has to come off. It's only held in there by four bolts, but it just seems wrong that I should have to take it out.

 

[Lewiston]

Cost of your friction pads is really high. I just purchased 4 for less than one of yours and I'm running a Super heavy Duty flail mower by Alamo. It would be worth your time to see if the other manufacturers have the same item. Do you have the dimensions of the friction pads including OD, ID, & thickness?
Rik