Small MF1010 issue today

[handirifle]

I figured it out thankfully, but thought I'd mention it anyway.

Having some concrete work done here (paying someone cause I am horrible at concrete) and was getting ready to start the ole 1010 to bring in some dirt to fill in the forms a bit.

Since I leave the key in, I turned it to the Gp's for the mandatory count, switched to ignition and.....nothing. I thought, Great, did I leave the key on?

Well I then went back to the GP position, and this time looked at the lights,.....again.. nothing.

Well I figured the battery was totally dead. Walk to the workshop, get the charger and ext cord. Pull off the front crossbar, raise the hood, and hook the charger up. Put charger on "start" position, since I figured the GP's would draw a lot of juice, and noticed ..again, no lights, no nothing.

So, back to the shop, to get pliers and a volt meter to start checkin it out. After tracing through the clutch switch (and then later remembering the GP's always worked with the clutch out before...duh!) then pulling the ignition switch out and checking that. Found no 12v period. Went to the battery, sure enough, 13.5v there. noticed when charger is put on "charge" mode, it sends out just a few amps. Two possibilities there, back connection, or it's fully charged. Check connections, and they're good. Must be charged.

At ignition switch there is NO power coming in or out. backtrack, a bit to where power comes from battery, and goes to starter solenoid. Voila! I found the ign wire at the solenoid, had broken.

Well since I don't have a connector with that big of a hole in it, I soldered the dirty greasy wire, back on the dirty greasy connector. It held, but barely.

I WILL replace that little bit of wiring. Stuck the key back in the newly re-installed ignition switch, and Yipee! the Mighty Massey fired right up.

Funny how one little wire can screw up an afternoon.

Thank the Good Lord, these things are simple.

 

[Thomas]

Sometimes its the simple/easy things makes us scratch the ole head.

 

[handirifle]

Sometimes its the simple/easy things makes us scratch the ole head.

Yup! by the way, replaced the wire today, cause IT DID IT AGAIN!!

Darn it. Anyway, hope that's behind me now.

 

[handirifle]

Update

Well finally got a manual today, an I&T Shop Manual. Got to looking thru it and peeked at the wiring diagrahm. The wire that is (was) burning is called a fusible link. Now it has me concerned.

The wire (link?) that was first there, was about 14ga, or so it seemed. When I replaced it the first time, not knowing what it was, I used 14ga wire, that promptly unfused itself on the first start.

I replaced it with a section of 10ga wire. That has held up, but the first time I started it, smoke rolled out from under the dash. I shut it off but without taking the tractor apart I cannot see what smoked, but it hasn't done it since.

I did notice, the warning light for the alternator, no longer lights up when the key is first turned on, though. I have no idea if it has affected the alternator or not.

Doing a search in the manual, shows me nothing about the amperage limit of the link.

None of the fuses blew, so I'm at a little loss for now. Soon, in a few weeks I will be able to pull it into the shop and have a real look see. Any suggestions on locating the proper fuse link?

This wire provides power to the start switch, and the glow plugs so it has to have had a fairly high amp rating. The first one (at least the one that WAS on it when i got it) looked like a standard wire, thus the reason I used wire to replace it.

Suggestions here?

 

[irvingj]

handirifle- any way you could post a pic of that section of the wiring diagram? Sure sounds like there's a short (?) somewhere in there.... I'm guessing the smoke you saw was insulation heating up in good shape on your new, heavier wire. Also, have you had a good look yet at the GP relay (I'm assuming there is one)? Are all GPs good --no shorts to ground?

 

[handirifle]

Nope, there is no GP relay. I was suprised myself when I was tracing the wires from the ign switch. Seems like a lotta load for an ignition switch to handle. That is also what led me to the 10ga wire in the "fusible link" section. Everytme I used the GP's it melted the smaller wires. Seemed reasonable to me, once I rigured out the wiring.

I will try to scan in a pic of the wiring diagram. It's a pretty simple one.

I'll check on the resistance of the GP's, what would I expect for normal ohm reading on one?

 

[irvingj]

Even my official MF-Iseki service book gives no specific value for resistance- just says to check for open or shorted; if you get a resistance and no short, plug's good..... not real helpful.

 

[lambs]

I can tell you how I checked my 1010's GPs if it helps.

Pull each one out, ground it on a piece of steel (trailer tongue), then clamp a 12 volt battery charger to it....positive lead to the GP, negative to the trailer itself. Then plug in the charger. Nothing will happen for the first 10 seconds, then the resistance is overcome and the GP will turn orange hot pretty quickly if it's good. Not very scientific, but I knew the GPs were good after that.

I also learned that the first 10 seconds of GP will do nothing at all, so I give it 15 to 20 now if it's decently warm out.

 

[lambs]

BTW, resistance value in the I&T manual shows .23 ohms....

 

[lambs]

Just noticed my original MF owner's manual wiring diagram does not show a fusible link, but the I&T manual shows one. I do not think my 1010 has one, and I think the red wire coming off the battery terminal on the starter goes directly to the ignition switch.

Did you by chance replace the ignition switch? It could be wired wrong I guess, or perhaps some wiring has worn through insulation somewhere.

 

[handirifle]

No I didn't replace the switch, but it does not look original. That said, it's a Massey key, so who knows. The diagrahm shows a center pole on the switch and mine does not have that.

I'll pull the GP's and check them, do a compression test at the same time. I missed the number for the resistance. Will look closer next time. I've been a bit under the weather last couple days, so my head's a little foggy. (That's my story and I'm stickn to it!)

The way other things have been done on this poor little beast, by previous owners, I'm suprised (pleasantly) that it runs. Will try to make up for that as I own it.

 

[lambs]

Sorry to hear you've been under the weather a bit!

The switch is easy to replace and you can see there aren't many wires. You can test each one based on the wiring diagram and figure out which post to put each wire on. If you need help, let me know. I might be able to take a picture of the back side of my ignition switch so you can better see what goes where. They're not hard to remove from the dash as I'm sure you've seen.

I think you'll find on the correct ignition switch the poles are numbered to match the wiring diagram, so that would make it pretty easy. I'd just test it anyways to make sure what you see on the diagram is what the switch is doing at each key position.

That bugger cost me about $75 though and it turned out to not be the problem in my case...but that's another story.

 

[handirifle]

Well, as far as I know the switch works fine. I'll need to dig a bit to see where the smoke came from. Will have to put that on the back burner a bit, unfortunately, I have wood to split and a fire pit to build.