Small pole barn advice

mopardude318 · Mar 15, 2018

So I had to rent a pump, of course. And the concrete company stacked the first 3 trucks on me when I said I needed 30 minutes between each truck. No big deal, we handled it. 4 trucks total though.

mopardude318 · Mar 15, 2018

LD1 · Mar 15, 2018

Rebar placement is a hot topic for many, and many different opinions.

Separating the opinions from the facts....
1. You need at least 1" of concrete all around the rebar for corrosion. Protection.
2. Rebar ads tensil strength to the slab. Thus most times it is placed in the tension sone of the concrete.

So most slabs, the bottom is in tension. For the average 6"-8" pour....simply an inch or tad more is ideal. Closer to the bottom (but still an inch minimum) is the strongest in terms of adding strength.

Rebar right in the middle adds little to no strenght.

But in a typical garage....tension strength is not the only thing rebar does. It keeps the surfaces betewwn expansion joints /control joints level. And minimizes crack swelling.

So another like of thought that I am seeing becoming more and more common, is to place the rebar in the upper third of the concrete. This is mostly on residential type garages, patios, etc and nothing structural. With a properly compacted base, tension strength isnt critical. And placement in upper third helps keep surfaces level and cracks/joints from swelling moreso than in the bottom third.

Don't know if it's just my area, but we do have frost/freeze/thaw concerns that aren't an issue in southern states

Redlands Okie · Mar 15, 2018

The gravel under the slab might be more work than required but will have less issues water and settling usually. Using concrete blocks for stem wall works also, but if properly installed are quite a bit of work and still not as strong as the concrete stem walls. Seems its been done more on the commercial end of specs and should work really well for a long time to come. You will have to look at pictures before long to remind yourself of the extra work, which is much better than looking at it and wishing you had done something else.

Looks like the finish will turn out nice. Nice to see you allowed for contraction joints. I sure use to hate toting those darn hoses around. Those guys need some sliders or skies to make their job a bit easier.

mopardude318 · Mar 21, 2018

The forms are pulled and I cleared the sides of dirt, before I backfill I have a few questions. Would it be wise to maybe apply a basement/concrete waterproofer, masonry sealer or something along those lines? I'm not sure what products are available.

After that, when I do backfill, should I use dirt or base rock/ gravel.

747driver · Mar 21, 2018

I would wait a few weeks. Let the concrete cure as it is still 'green' and if you by chance hit it with a piece of equipment in leveling it will break/chip off. If you don't have gutters I would put down gravel/rock to control washout and dirt splash on siding.

Redlands Okie · Mar 23, 2018

mopardude318 said:
The forms are pulled and I cleared the sides of dirt, before I backfill I have a few questions. Would it be wise to maybe apply a basement/concrete waterproofer, masonry sealer or something along those lines? I'm not sure what products are available.

After that, when I do backfill, should I use dirt or base rock/ gravel.

Concrete sealers are available for applying over fresh concrete.
BASF product called
Master cure 14% is for applying over newly poured concrete. If you apply it to thick it can turn whitish for a while till it cures out.
Master cure 25 % or 30% if for after it cures (about a month)
Lots of products for shop floors that are even heavier duty for after it cures.

You really should find a final product so that you do not apply something that affects the final products application.

Sherwin Williams, Pittsburgh paints and others also have good products.

The more gravel in the fill next to the concrete the better. This allows the water to drain out and not be held like a sponge like normal soil does against the concrete. A french type drain pipe at the bottom of the wall or better yet a bit below it also helps when used with the gravel to get the water gone.