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small pond algae control
- Thread starter RobertN
- Start date
- Views: 3364
TonyC
Platinum Member
Yep if it's getting a lot of sun and no beneficial bacteria you will get algae. Let me know if you need anything else or if you have trouble finding the back-up!
dummy
Platinum Member
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- Jul 31, 2001
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- Southern Maryland
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- Ford 1220, John Deere 770, Case 580E and Allmand TLB-35
Do you know who makes Back-up? The water feature I'm building now may not need it, but .....nice to know info. if it will work and lessen costs. You're right about UV kits being expensive, but that's all we've found to work worth a darn.
TonyC
Platinum Member
I don't know who makes it but one place you can get by mail is <A target="_blank" HREF=http://64.224.96.217/ShopSite/treatment.html#506>here</A>
I don't have any experience with very large ponds but with smaller ponds you don't have to spend a lot of time or money to have crystal clear water without chemicals. You just need the right balance of plants and fish with a little help from natural bacteria. My pond doesn't even have a real filter.
I don't have any experience with very large ponds but with smaller ponds you don't have to spend a lot of time or money to have crystal clear water without chemicals. You just need the right balance of plants and fish with a little help from natural bacteria. My pond doesn't even have a real filter.
dummy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2001
- Messages
- 730
- Location
- Southern Maryland
- Tractor
- Ford 1220, John Deere 770, Case 580E and Allmand TLB-35
In waterponds.com, I found a good article for a decent inexpensive (cheap) bio/mechanical filter. For my new water feature, clay lined 36 x 60 x 4 getting the balancing act together, fish/plants/filter is going to take a while. Thanks for the link.
rmorgan
Gold Member
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- Summerside, OH
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- NH TC33D; RTV900; Gravely Professional
Robert--
Nobody has said much about holistic pond-management techniques yet. Algae exists because there is enough nutrient in the pond for it to grow. When it dies, it decomposes, and provides--more nutrient. Cutrine is an excellent product which I use occasionally in our 3/4-ac. pond, but its benefit is also its detriment: It promptly kills the algae, providing more nutrient plus the dead algae collects on the bottom as muck.
One of the most effective means of controlling algae, especially in a pond your size, is simply taking it out. I spent a couple of hours last night making "algae rolls" of the filamentous algae which forms around the shoreline, and got nearly all of it out. Algae is extremely high in nitrogen, and makes excellent compost, which is better in a compost pile than decaying on the bottom of your pool.
Also, your pond store probably sells beneficial microbes, which can do a lot for water clarity and algae control; they provide a new bottom-of-the-food-chain by chomping up decaying algae, muck from leaves, and other nutrients; the microbes multiply quickly and exponentially (I've read that two can become 16 million in eight hours), then are gobbled up by zooplankton, bugs, etc., which are then eaten by the fish. An Ohio company, Inspired by Nature, will ship their own high-density blend of microbes, which are freeze-dried and in water-soluble baggies--just toss 'em in.
A couple of good websites: My neighborhood fish hatchery is online at www.jonesfish.com, good pond information is at www.ibnature.com, and information about holistic management and a holistic habitat-improvement product is at www.aquamats.com.
Nobody has said much about holistic pond-management techniques yet. Algae exists because there is enough nutrient in the pond for it to grow. When it dies, it decomposes, and provides--more nutrient. Cutrine is an excellent product which I use occasionally in our 3/4-ac. pond, but its benefit is also its detriment: It promptly kills the algae, providing more nutrient plus the dead algae collects on the bottom as muck.
One of the most effective means of controlling algae, especially in a pond your size, is simply taking it out. I spent a couple of hours last night making "algae rolls" of the filamentous algae which forms around the shoreline, and got nearly all of it out. Algae is extremely high in nitrogen, and makes excellent compost, which is better in a compost pile than decaying on the bottom of your pool.
Also, your pond store probably sells beneficial microbes, which can do a lot for water clarity and algae control; they provide a new bottom-of-the-food-chain by chomping up decaying algae, muck from leaves, and other nutrients; the microbes multiply quickly and exponentially (I've read that two can become 16 million in eight hours), then are gobbled up by zooplankton, bugs, etc., which are then eaten by the fish. An Ohio company, Inspired by Nature, will ship their own high-density blend of microbes, which are freeze-dried and in water-soluble baggies--just toss 'em in.
A couple of good websites: My neighborhood fish hatchery is online at www.jonesfish.com, good pond information is at www.ibnature.com, and information about holistic management and a holistic habitat-improvement product is at www.aquamats.com.
TonyC
Platinum Member
Yeah getting the balance going can take a little time. An inexpensive filter system isn't a bad way to start. I have a small waterfall and all I did was put the submerged pump into a black plastic 10" flower pot. I cut a circle out of 1 1/2" filter media and to fit into the pot's opening and cut a small hole in the middle for the hose to come out. By doing that all the water is pulled through the filter down to the pump. Total cost: $4.00!
JonLeonard
Silver Member
I built a small filter for my pond a few years ago. It was a 2 1/2 gallon bucket, with a plastic planter base (you know those saucers that you get to set under a house plant to catch excess water) upside down in it. I drilled holes in the planter base and put the hose from the pump into one of them. Then I filled the bucket with small lava rock. Last, I drilled a hole near the top of the bucket and sealed a hose barb in it with non-toxic caulk and attached a hose back going into the pond.
Just put a valve on the pump and adjust the flow so that the pump doesnt send so much water that the bucket overflows.
Doesnt take long till lots of hungry beneficial bacteria grow in the lava rock that eat all kinds of nastly stuff in the water.
Jon
Just put a valve on the pump and adjust the flow so that the pump doesnt send so much water that the bucket overflows.
Doesnt take long till lots of hungry beneficial bacteria grow in the lava rock that eat all kinds of nastly stuff in the water.
Jon
Woody1
Bronze Member
question......why not just try to do it without chemicals? find out what type of fish / critter eats algea, then put it in the pond. of course that way might be opening a whole new can of worms.....when that critter gets numerous, what eats it? then what eats that too? etc..etc.... on 2nd thought...chemicals might do better! lol
