Snow Plow Cylinders

[horsinaround]

I bought a used Curtis plow and converted it to a QA plate for my tractor.
The plow was sitting outside for a long time and I suspect that the cylinders are rusted up, but have no way of knowing, other than hooking it up and letting it flow.
My concern is that once that is done, if rusted, all the rust will go into the system.

It is getting close to snow time, and I need to get it opperational.

Can Plow cylinders be rebuilt? Is it worth it? They are about $100 each.... I know it is a something thousand dollar tractor, so what am I worried about another $200? Well, that is how I got a something thousand dollar tractor, worrying about the small stuff.

If I take it to a hydraulic shop, they will likely charge 50-80 per hour to break them down (if possible) and then parts on top.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

 

[kennyd]

SA (single acting) plow cylinders are re-built VERY easily. Remove the gland nut on top and pull them apart.

 

[horsinaround]

Maybe the rebuild is easy, but breaking that nut loose... that is the tough part. Any hints on getting it busted loose? Assuming I get it apart, where can I get parts?

 

[kennyd]

Keep the cylinder, at least the base end attached to the plow while breaking the nut loose. A big wrench-even a pipe wrench will be needed. Parts are available online or locally at any hydraulic shop...post some pictures and we can give more detail.

 

[mmurphy]

Fill the cylinder a couple times and unhook, and push cylinder back in to evacuate fluid in there. Should even be able to extend cylinder by hand to fill with fluid, and waste fluid in a pan so you can see if it is dirty. May be only talking a quart.

 

[nybirdman]

I did exactly the same thing...Curtis Plow....check Surplus Center..prices are $60.00-$70.00 for NEW cylinders...do you really want to mess around with those old cylinders and contaminate your tractor?

 

[roman]

I just mounted a plow with angle cylinders to my ford 1720. The cylinders are single action ( one line to them). I attched it to my curl action on loader. The pistons don't retact.
What do I need to do so the piston works both ways?

thanks ,Mark

 

[LD1]

I just mounted a plow with angle cylinders to my ford 1720. The cylinders are single action ( one line to them). I attched it to my curl action on loader. The pistons don't retact.
What do I need to do so the piston works both ways?

thanks ,Mark

Pictures or a diagram of how you hooked up the hydraulics will help here.

But with a single acting cylinder, the onlything that makes them "retract" is the other cylinder pusing the plow in the opposite direction. So, assuming you had them unhooked from the plow jsut to test them, they will not retract.

If your loader has a joystick, left=curl and right =dump. So you would need to hook the hydraulic line that goes to the base of the dump cylinder to the angle cylinder on the left, and the hydraulic line on the front of the dump cylinders to the right angle cylinder. This will make the left angle cylinder extend (plow will angle right) when you push the joystick to the right(dump) position and vice versa.

But again, it will only work with BOTH angle cylinders hooked up to the plow. Because they are single acting cylinders, they can only exert force in one direction. That is why there are two of them.

 

[kennyd]

Read this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/9403-3-position-valve-vs-4-a.html and search the term "regen" for lot's more reading. I suspect you have a 3-way joystick valve. One other member with a older Ford had the same problem.

 

[chopped]

yES you cant do it. i tried with my 1720 also the regen part makes it not work as it would seem to.I had to run a seperate line.

 

[roman]

Chopped,

You ran a seperate line from where to where?

Thanks to all, this is very informative. I am a hydro numbnut!

As a side note: the tractor this plow was mounted on previously had rear remotes and he ran the plow cylinders off it. My tractor doesn't have rear remotes. I would like them sometime. Is now the time I should consider that?
How difficult/espensive is that route?

Mark

 

[chopped]

Yes I had had a 'loop' installed from the dealer. So I got a valve from surplus for 80 dollars and ran the line in and out of it (series). Then ran hoses to the front. (I used 1/4 inch) no need for larger in my opinion, as I still have to idle down to swing smoothly.(geared trans).
you have a loader I assume? My 'loop' line ran out of onr of those ports and then down to the return block unr the tractor.
I heard talk here of electric diverter valves,I wonder if that would work on the loader up and down.If youd like i will get a couple pics for you

 

[roman]

Copped, Pics would be great! I see you are from New England too.

 

[J_J]

Are those water pipe fittings in your return line? Looks like at least one of them is a pressure line. You are taking a big chance using those fittings if true.

I see at least 6 rusty water pipe fittings.

 

[TTTTTT]

Chopped,

You ran a seperate line from where to where?

Thanks to all, this is very informative. I am a hydro numbnut!

As a side note: the tractor this plow was mounted on previously had rear remotes and he ran the plow cylinders off it. My tractor doesn't have rear remotes. I would like them sometime. Is now the time I should consider that?
How difficult/espensive is that route?

Mark

Not sure of your system, but if a full open center, you could do something similar to what I did.
Maybe a little late, but here is mod i did to add a separate valve right off my FEL valve. Just putting it in serries to control front hookups. The main reason was for plow angle control but can be for any other 3rd function control to the front like grapple etc. If you are running lines to the plow, you might as well add QD mounted at the front for the other uses.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/154201-front-qd-mod-plow-hookup.html

Heres the video as the link in the thread is not working




Dave

 

[roman]

Thanks TTTTT and other, I have some research to do!

I will keep you posted.

Mark

 

[Duffster]

Are those water pipe fittings in your return line? Looks like at least one of them is a pressure line. You are taking a big chance using those fittings if true.

I see at least 6 rusty water pipe fittings.

I must be missing something. Can you point out what your looking at?

 

[LD1]

I must be missing something. Can you point out what your looking at?

I don't know where the post or pics went but I rember seeing what JJ saw too.

Someone had posted pics of how they ran the hydraulic lines and it had TEE's and Elbows of what looked to just be sch40 black pipe. And a little rusty too.

I think that is what JJ was getting at, as shc40 black pipe is usually only rated @ 300psi WOG and 150psi SWP

 

[J_J]

I must be missing something. Can you point out what your looking at?

There were at least three pictures.

The poster has removed his pictures. He should still change out all those galvanized/black pipe fittings. Might be able to get away with using galvanized/black pipe fittings for the return lines.