So do you think this would work for my Lincoln 180C

[woodlandfarms]

One of my biggest complaints is that the Lincoln has these stupid A thru J settings that have no accuracy to anything. In an effort to save money, I guess they figured a meter reader would be out of the question.

So some guy did this, do you think his idea is sound and it would work? I would like to be able to take notes from various people on settings and apply it to my own world. In my head it seems like a solid game plan, but I know so little about the actual electronics of a welder......




Test procedure: I used .035 wire for all tests. I started at the bottom of each respective dial and worked my way up to the top of the scale. I then turned the dial back and forth from minimum and maximum slowly twice, then started over at the top of the scale and worked my way back down to the lowest setting. I recorded the measurement at each single setting as I progressed up and down the scale. Therefore, two tests were done on each setting of each dial and I averaged the results. If the results varied more than one measurement in each respective case, I ran two more tests at that setting and average the two closest results. This only happened a couple of times.

For the feed speed, the voltage dial was set to 泥 and I triggered and counted to six and multiplied by ten to convert the results to Feet Per Minute. Frankly I was a bit surprised how non-lineal the FPM figures turned out to be.

For voltage I used a good quality digital multimeter across the power terminals, triggering the gun with no wire loaded. I held the trigger until the voltage results stabilized on the meter dial. This represented the open voltage no load condition.

Though probably not the epitome of accuracy, these tests are close enough for my purposes and I知 confident in the results of the test.

 

[FredH]

The " C " on 180 stands for Continuous does it not ?? That is how it is on my 135 that I kept even though I bought a bigger welder since . So I understand the testing twice and then averaging . I imagine it would get you a lot closer to real world settings than trying to figure out what " G " or " D " is , ( Been there , done that ) . I remember while using my 135C + , I had it pretty well figured out with settings in my head , since I only welded maybe 3 or 4 different thicknesses of metal and would " Dial " it in after the first couple of welds .

Sounds like it would be a pretty interesting Cheat Sheet that I would like to see if you would share .

Fred H.

 

[Shield Arc]

Personally I think you're over thinking this. Really all you need to know is results at the weld. Dials, and gauges are for reference only. Once you learn how to read the puddle, and understand what it takes to get the results you want at the weld, you have it made. :thumbsup:
For years this is all we had to work with.

 

[Shield Arc]

Here is some information that may be useful for you.
MIG Welding Tutorial, Techniques and Practical

 

[FredH]

What S.A. wrote about " Reading the Puddle " is kinda what I was hinting at as far as Dialing it in , But I doubt I am that knowledgeable . In my case it was more like " Well that setting has a better looking weld than the Previous " !! :ashamed:

Fred H.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So yeah,,,,, I wish I was a good welder. I wish I was the guy who didn't burn holes in his 16 guage project. But I am not.

Yes, I actually now feel a lot more comfortable with my Everlast Stick, knowing the settings to get me started. But as I am using the Lincoln to work with thin, and it seems all the advice I get is related to Voltage and Speed, and A's and J's, I gotta find a middle road, at least for the moment.

Here is the cheat sheet that guy offered. I am thinking of starting with it and seeing how it compares. Yes, C is continuous (I guess the 180 HD is nothched, the Home Depot Version).

Very soon I am going up to Sheilds home and staying with him for a few days. In return I will talk with his neighbor. I like crazy people.

 

[Shield Arc]

Member here dragoneggs brought his Miller 211 over. He set it by the chart. I didn't like the way it welded at all:thumbdown:! I started changing volts and wire speed. I ask him if he could hear the difference in the arc. He was shocked that I wouldn't go by the chart. Charts are only suggestions, you have to do what ever the puddle / weld requires.

 

[MossRoad]

So I was poking around the operators manual for you machine and I go to page B7, step 19 and had a chuckle...

19. Read "Learn to Weld" (LTW1) that is included with
the machine or watch the "How to Weld" DVD
included with the machine.

ahhahaha

Anyhow, I have a small 120v mig and it has a chart in the door that says what settings to start with for a given thickness of metal, type of metal, etc.... Its very helpful for us less-than-experienced types. I was looking for that on your machine but didn't see it anywhere.

 

[woodlandfarms]

It has the chart, It inside the wire roll door. but it has not been very accurate. Generally the puddle has been cold per the suggested settings. Wire speed I really am trying to figure out and not sure how it all works together. Saw some guys saying for the most part set it at 4 and leave it unless welding at the bottom or top end of the voltage scale.

But I am hijacking this thread.

 

[newbury]

Here is some information that may be useful for you.
MIG Welding Tutorial, Techniques and Practical

Thanks, nice informative link.
Also has sections on TIG and ARC.