SOB! Another TC-24 Surgery???

[SacandagaBrad]

Becoming a classic symptom I fear. Doing routine maintenance on my 2003 TC-24D at 590 hours, noticed a drop of clean oil on the front drive shaft boot. Figured it had to be hydraulic since the engine is due for a change and pretty black. I found it dripped down from the joint between the engine block and bell housing.

After reading Mega Me and TCBoomer's problems, I put a wrench on the 4 bolts I could easily reach. With a small box wrench, was able to get half to a full turn on all of them! Probably could have started them with my fingers.

So now I'm torn between sick and flat out p**sed. 6 year old machine that has not been abused, residential use only, "top of the line" and literally breaking in half.

What is next? Any idea what the dealer might charge? I don't have all the shop tools, just a couple floor jacks and jack stands plus the standard wrenches etc. I do all my own maintenance, have pulled and rebuilt car and truck motors, but not sure I want to tear into the hydraulics. I do have a nice heated garage to work in. How urgent is this I wonder?

Has NH come to bat for anyone on this issue? My dealer has been great, I'll start with them and refer to the threads here as documentation of the problem. This is at least the third one mentioned here.

The rest of you TC owners out there, get a wrench on those bell housing bolts right now!

Any ideas appreciated.

Brad

 

[JSUnlimited]

Hey Brad, I read the title of your post I thought of many explicative words to say. Since this is a family oriented site, I decided to keep calm. God forbid someone say something wrong here!

Short of driving over there and fixing it for you, I will be more than happy to offer any help I can. I have a service manual that I can hook you up with, its for a 24DA though. If you have pulled and rebuilt auto engines, then you can fix this. You'll need a good selection of metric wrenches and sockets, beer, loud music, and an understanding wife!

As far as the dealer is concerned, what I did with mine would have cost me close to a grand. Unlike the dealer, I took time to clean areas that have never been cleaned and took the time to touch up paint, etc. while things were apart. The dealer may not do that, however they may offer a warranty on the repair that they do. I actually was able to get my cruise control to work right while I had mine apart....it never has since day one!

To begin with, can you get some pics of the situation?

 

[JSUnlimited]

Oh of course, I have forgot a couple if things!

Time. You could wait and see if tightening those bolts helped. Keep in mind that there will still be oil laying in the bellhousing area that will slowly keep seeping out. The downiside of that is that my clutch disk became saturated and was and added expense that maybe could have been prevented. If it needs split I'd go ahead and replace the disk anyways. I'd say that if you have a leak and that the bolts are loose...the damage may be done? Why wait? Look into it now.


Is this a gear or hydro? Again I'm not familiar with a 24D...just a 24DA.

 

[SacandagaBrad]

I'll try to get pics tomorrow, it's pretty much identical to your situation (or maybe TCBoomer's), oil dripping off the boot on the front drive shaft, but clean oil indicating hydro to me. And it's coming out by that cotter pin head, what is that thing?

For now I have to pick up a car that just had tranny lines put in, and I still have to get my Honda Odyssey looked at, leaking the same place as the tractor. Obviously a different animal, but I'm overwhelmed right now.

I am going to stop at the dealer to see if they can work something out with NH, will print out some pages from your story as backup.

The only differences between the D and the DA is instrument panel/throttle/light switch locations and headlight positioning. As far as the guts of the machine, identical from what I understand. Even going to the 26 DA was only changing the RPMs, same motor.

I appreciate the help and support, may be leaning on you in the near future! I do have all the other things you mentioned, including the understanding wife. She understands a $1000 repair bill!

Brad

 

[JSUnlimited]

I always say "when it rains, it pours"!

It is my understanding that the cotter pin is in the drain/weep hole in the bellhousing to break tension on any fluid that accumulates there so that it will drain out. It seems that your input shaft seal is leaking . Get me some pics and we'll see. Man if those bolts were loose like mine, I'm sure that is what is going on.

Do you have a FEL or BH? I guess it does not matter, just wondering. If not things will go I bit easier.

 

[SacandagaBrad]

I have the FEL on it, and it is a hydro. I'm pretty certain its the input shaft seal. Did you replace the rear main on the engine too? Can't remember.

Oh, and family rated. That SOB in the subject line is in reference to crying

 

[JSUnlimited]

SOB is also used to abbreviate shortness of breath!

Keep us updated. Get some pics!

 

[jwstewar]

OK GUYS ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!!!! I'M TIRED OF THIS!!! I don't want to have to be splitting my tractor and you guys are scaring me. I'm right at 1000 hours now on my 2003. Guess I know what I'll be looking at this weekend.

 

[SacandagaBrad]

Jim,

I'll be interested to hear what you find, hoping everything is tight. I remember when I was buying my 2003 there were a few here that warned of the front wheels falling off. And I remember your problems with the MMM mount coming loose. I could have handled that, but to have the bolts that literally hold the two halves of the tractor together come loose is unacceptable. I need to pull mine into the garage and get to the rest of the bolts, I only did a quick check to confirm my problems the other night. Like I said, the bottom 4 were all loose.

Let me know what you find.

Brad

 

[jwstewar]

Yep, I did have the fun with the MMM coming loose - twice. I also lost the left front tire. Compared to what you guys are going through or have gone through, I feel pretty fortunate. Hopefully, I don't head down that path.