Soldering a Ball Valve without Damaging the Seat ?

[MarkF48]

Got a little plumbing project coming up and am going to use ball valves in the lines (1/2" copper). I've done a bit of plumbing and sweat soldered stop/waste type valves in an open position so the washer didn't get heated up to damage it. The ball valve seal/seat looks like it's an integral part of the body and close to where heat would be applied so I'm not sure if I need to do something to avoid damage by heating. Any tricks I ought to know about?

 

[grsthegreat]

do it all the time. most plumbers wrap a wet towel around the central portion if its large enuf. On the smaller 1/2" and 3/4" ones. just be quick about it. Use MAPP gas for a fast, hot flame, and hit it with a wet cloth fast after sweating it.

Ive never had one leak afterwards.

 

[Walkin Horse]

do it all the time. most plumbers wrap a wet towel around the central portion if its large enuf. On the smaller 1/2" and 3/4" ones. just be quick about it. Use MAPP gas for a fast, hot flame, and hit it with a wet cloth fast after sweating it.

Ive never had one leak afterwards.

Have you tried any of the lead free for potable water ball valves. We had a class on how to install them.

 

[SPIKER]

I've disassembled some and soldered them in then removed the two halves and put insides back together. not hard and NEVER a damage that way.

Mark

 

[lilranch2001]

I have never damaged a sweated ball valve in my life

 

[newbury]

Have you looked at push to connect fittings?

 

[rswyan]

I've disassembled some and soldered them in then removed the two halves and put insides back together. not hard and NEVER a damage that way.

Mark

What he said :thumbsup:

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have never seen a plumber disassemble a valve to solder them in place. Heat it fast and only enough to melt the solder and get away from it with the flame. Cool it before soldering the other side. The valve body is a good heat sink to pull the heat away from the seals. I have never seen one damaged. As stated, most procedures for weld in valves say to open the valve at least partially prior to welding so you don't damage the seats when they expand due to heat. I wouldn't think this to be much of an issue when soldering as you wont get it that hot with the low temp solders used today.

 

[jaotguy]

just clean the surfaces well and use flux ... solder away ...

 

[mbohuntr]

I just tried sweating some fittings with no success after doing it successfully for 30 years... Something's different now. I bought some Lennox lead free solder and paste, cleaned the fittings with emery paper and wire brushes... after soldering, you could still pull them apart with your bare hands! The solder wouldn't flow between the joints at all.
A friend recommended the push-fit connectors. WOW! NICE! only complaint is the threads either aren't std any more, or the quality is poor. I first used Teflon tape, and they leaked like a sieve, then I switched to pipe dope and they STILL leak! I then cleaned them up and used the small vial of blue adhesive supplied in the pack and it works great! Problem is I can't seem to find it online anywhere??? Blue Hawk fittings and Permaseal adhesive.