Soldering a Ball Valve without Damaging the Seat ?

[JDgreen227]

I don't like, nor trust the "shark tooth" push lock fittings.
Plus I thoroughly like to solder copper.

As far as I am concerned there is no better looking plumbing system than a well engineered and soldered copper sweated system

I agree...and have soldered hundreds of the ball valves but, repeat BUT...I have always kept the valves well soaked with cloths saturated with cold water. Have always had little tolerance for ANYTHING (even 1/4" fridge filters) with push lock fasteners.

There is a reason for push lock plumbing fittings: THE PEOPLE WHO USE THEM DON'T KNOW A FLYING F**K ABOUT PLUMBING. Make it easy and the multitudes will flock to buy your product. MORONS !!!!!!

 

[kenmac]

Most of the time, I just use heat paste instead of wet rag. I use the paste on the HVAC jobs ,so I just keep the paste on the tucks

 

[Raspy]

Mark,

You are way over thinking this. Also, "associates" in the plumbing department often don't have the slightest idea about products or techniques.

If you solder the joint correctly you will never get the valve seats hot enough to damage them. I have to air test my systems with 100 PSI against closed ball valves that I have soldered in place. None of them have ever leaked air at 100 PSI after soldering. Relax and use the equipment the way it was intended to be used. The only reasons others are dissembling or wrapping the valves is because they are over-cautious or have a tendency to way overheat the joint or they just don't know what the valve can take.

Many years ago when sweat ball valves were becoming popular, I was concerned about heat too, but I got over it right away and never looked back. My air tests of many systems over many years has proved the point. Sweat ball valves are intended to be sweated in place in the middle of pipe runs where they cannot be disassembled.

Of course, a hardware store associate may know better and I could be way off. Do what you think is best.