Some NEWBIE capability Questions

[Dirtandgrass]

Okay so I have just about decided on which unit to buy (thanks to the "Kubota Buying" forum).

Now before I do, I have a few questions before I take the plunge. The questions are based on the fact that I am wondering if some of the things I need to do I should just "hire out".

First, bush hogging. I am going to go with a 7 foot heavy duty (Rhino) as I need to do some clearing. I have never used a bush hog before, hence the questions. Some of the areas I need to get at I cannot come at long ways (due to some trees and fencing). Can you back up with a bush hog running? I could "back into" the areas I want to get at but was not sure if you could back up with a hog running. I also heard you should lower the hog before spooling it up. Is that true? Some areas are just basically some fairly heavy hedge row type stuff that it would be nice if I could keep the hog up a little higher then basically lay it down on the "stuff" and sort of mulch it. Am I way way off here or what?

Secondly, some places have some tree sapplings that I would not want to run over with the hog. Now I am not talking stuff that would take a D6 to push over. However, can I use a FEL and knock these down? I guess it would be more accurate to say dig them up. I am thinking drop the FEL into the ground just prior to the base of the tree then run it down/push it up. Is that possible. Basically I would be using the FEL as a "very light" dozer (I think). I know that is not how its designed nor what its designed for...but can it be done and do people ever do that? Oh yea I almost forgot...I am in Mississippi so the ground we are talking about is not rocky or anything and its level. Its just pretty much dirt...and I am sure there might be some clay down deeper as again it is Mississippi. Not sure if that matters, but wanted to let you know just in case.

I know these are really really newbie questions, but I don't know where else to ask. And yes I know I am the low man on the pole around here in terms of experience, so if I need to endure some hazing, its okay I can handle it.

Thanks folks.

Regards.

 

[DmansPadge]

Don't worry about the questions... thats what the forum is for. Yes... you can use the hog in reverse. The problem with lowering it down on something is that you open the door up to slinging debris... and it is nothing at all for a cutter to throw a rock or chunk of wood a long ways... possible hurting people, breaking things, etc. If you decide to use that technique... be real careful and aware of what your doing. If the saplings are less than say.... 3" you could use the cutter on them. That is considering you have the equipment to handle it... but since you mentioned a heavy duty 7' cutter... sound like you'll have the right stuff. The loader can knock them over easily.... getting them out of the ground will take a little more work.... it can be done though if they aren't too big.

There's my take... hopefully that helps.

 

[woodchuckie]

Once I got used to it I can now usually hit the 6 to 7 inch pine and gum and snap the root off below the surface. I don't even slow up I just keep going on to the next tree and all the while the cutter is running cutting the smaller brush in the area. These are usually trees about five years old that have come up in logging roads I am reclaiming as a trail. If I had a lot that was much bigger It would be very slow work. In extreamily heavy brush I'll go in with cutter raised and come back out with it lower. Just seams to go better that way.

 

[MarkV]

Don’t worry about asking questions that is why everyone is here. I’d like a little more information before throwing my two cents in. You mentioned a 7’ heavy duty Rino rotary mower. That happens to be the mower one of the locals here does hard core power line mowing with. It is a big heavy mower that I normally see behind a 60 horsepower tractor or better. What do you have for a tractor or plan on buying? It would also help to know what type and size the shrubs and sapling you plan to mow are.

As far as taking out sapling with the FEL I do it all the time with a 40 hp tractor and don’t consider it unusual use at all. The success rate depends on the tree type, size and soil conditions. I actually find that trees in the 6” range will come out better than smaller ones which tend to flex and bend without popping the roots. Those smaller trees that bend over are a bit much for my light duty mower but the one you are looking at behind the right tractor will eat them up.

MarkV

 

[Westendorf-RR]

However, can I use a FEL and knock these down? I guess it would be more accurate to say dig them up. I am thinking drop the FEL into the ground just prior to the base of the tree then run it down/push it up. Is that possible. Basically I would be using the FEL as a "very light" dozer (I think). I know that is not how its designed nor what its designed for...but can it be done and do people ever do that?

Oh yes! We hear of people doing that all the time, 9 out of 10 times they are looking for parts to fix something they broke. We do not recommend doing this, especially with the bucket rolled under. Accidentally hit a stump when going too fast or try to doze a tree that's just a little too big...you could be fixing your loader. This type of task can put a lot of uneven pressure on the loader, in the wrong place (at outer edges) you could easily twist the loader. A lot will have to do with the type of trees and terrain on your property. If you are just dozing tiny saplings for the "very light" work you indicated above, it shouldn't be an issue. Just a word of caution to be very aware and alert to your surroundings.

 

[Sully2]

Secondly, some places have some tree sapplings that I would not want to run over with the hog. Now I am not talking stuff that would take a D6 to push over. However, can I use a FEL and knock these down? I guess it would be more accurate to say dig them up. I am thinking drop the FEL into the ground just prior to the base of the tree then run it down/push it up. Is that possible. Basically I would be using the FEL as a "very light" dozer (I think). I know that is not how its designed nor what its designed for...but can it be done and do people ever do that?

As has been already posted...by "battering" a tree you can easily mess up your loader...ALSO...dont "hit it" near the base...push against it up higher.

ANALOGY: A wooden fence post in the ground and you are manually trying to pull it out. At first...you grasp it by the BASE....( it dont budge) THEN you grab it by the very TOP and you have leverage and by working the post back and forth...you can remove it.

I push mine over by placing the edge ( lower) against trees about 4-5 feet up....putting more and more pressure on them until my tires start to spin...( 2 wheel drive) and then go to 4 wheel drive and if that doesnt work...I lock the rear end.

By adding pressure; letting off....again pressure...etc..etc..I can wiggle large ones to the point that THEN I can "bang" into them and shove them over...sometimes as I "shove" lowering the bucket of the FEL to add more pressure on them

 

[N80]

I've cleared about three acres with my 45 hp 4wd. Trees from 3 -10". Almost all pines. And I didn't just break them off. This area is cleared anough to run a plow through now. No stumps.

The most important aspect of this process (for me) was soil condition. If the soil (mine is clay) was dry and hard, the trees wanted to snap off at the ground. This is no problem if all you intend to do is mow the area, but I wanted all stumps gone. So if it was real dry, I quit.

When the soil was fairly moist I'd approach the tree, in 4wd to begin with. No need to start in 2wd. I'd gently make contact with the bucket edge in a neutral position (close to level) at about 3-5 feet up depending on the tree. Then, in a low gear move forward steadily, adjusting loader position as needed. Moat of the time the tree goes over and roots pop up. Then, back up just a little, hook bucket edge under roots (tooth bar would be nice) and scoop it out of the ground. This should be child's play with a 7040, just try not to overdo it and break the tree off.

 

[streamin]

When the soil was fairly moist I'd approach the tree, in 4wd to begin with. No need to start in 2wd. I'd gently make contact with the bucket edge in a neutral position (close to level) at about 3-5 feet up depending on the tree. Then, in a low gear move forward steadily, adjusting loader position as needed. Moat of the time the tree goes over and roots pop up. Then, back up just a little, hook bucket edge under roots (tooth bar would be nice) and scoop it out of the ground. This should be child's play with a 7040, just try not to overdo it and break the tree off.

I do that the exact same way, I just make sure I am in the middle of the FEL.Sometimes I need to dig a little dirt around the base if it is stubborn.

 

[Dirtandgrass]

Don稚 worry about asking questions that is why everyone is here. I壇 like a little more information before throwing my two cents in. You mentioned a 7 heavy duty Rino rotary mower. That happens to be the mower one of the locals here does hard core power line mowing with. It is a big heavy mower that I normally see behind a 60 horsepower tractor or better. What do you have for a tractor or plan on buying? It would also help to know what type and size the shrubs and sapling you plan to mow are.

As far as taking out sapling with the FEL I do it all the time with a 40 hp tractor and don稚 consider it unusual use at all. The success rate depends on the tree type, size and soil conditions. I actually find that trees in the 6 range will come out better than smaller ones which tend to flex and bend without popping the roots. Those smaller trees that bend over are a bit much for my light duty mower but the one you are looking at behind the right tractor will eat them up.

MarkV

Yea in terms of the size of that hog, I am probably going to go with the 7040 which is (if I remember correctly) 65 PTO HP and 68 engine HP. My dealer said that will be fine for the 7 foot heavy duty Rhino Bush Hog, and will (as you guys mentioned) handle some pretty thick cutting.

As far as the soil type, I am no expert, but its pretty much just dirt and no rocks. Its typical Mississippi ground...level and stays pretty dry with only a minimal drying time after a decent rain. Brush and tree type? NO idea...again just typical Mississippi over growth.

I think (after lenghty contemplation and LOTS of help from fellow TBN folks) that the M7040 will handle that 7 foot hog and do what I want. If anyone thinks the M7040 is gonna be "behind the curve" it sure would be nice to know that now before I call in the CFO in charge of aquisitions (AKA wife). I just wanted some input on "technique" in hopes of learning the best (and least likely chance of breaking somthing) ways of doing things.

Regards.

Regards.