Source for fixed hub clutch. Dual clutch S650 Bison

[LynnBilodeau]

Amazingly, this clutch was still working .... part of the time. Other times is would refuse to disengage. I was half expecting to find a problem with the release bearing. Apparently, it was just the extra peices getting jammed in making it "thicker".

Anyway, the small spline clutch disc is in good shape. This one has a solid hub and as you can see it is in pieces.

Best I can tell, the over all diameter should be about 7.25 inches, or 185mm.

19 splines on the hub, and hub diameter is about 1.240 inches, or 31.5 mm.

I found a couple on ebay, but they are described as 9 inches in diameter, and I am certain that is too big.

This one is in such poor shape, I don't know if it can be rebuilt.

 

[LynnBilodeau]

Seller jeffcube on ebay says he can make one for me. I am sending him the old hub. Two day turn around.

He has a website: tractorclutchesrus.com

He is located in Humbolt, IA

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Always good to know someone who can build it for you!

 

[LynnBilodeau]

Received the new clutch today. Looks real nice. Will post a pic before I install it this weekend.

 

[LynnBilodeau]

Putting this back together.

Here are pics of the new clutch in the assembly. I have everything figured out EXCEPT the adjustment for play in the three bolts that preload the PTO clutch.

Not even sure I am using the correct terminology. I have a service manual, but this is not covered. My service manual only covers the single disc clutch for a tractor without PTO.

I KNOW there needs to be some free play there. Otherwise, there would be no way for the clutch to disengage. I don't know how critical it is, but suspect it needs to be pretty close.

I believe I can still get to those three bolts after the tractor is back together through the inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing. However, it would be much easier to adjust while I have this on the bench.

One pic shows a feeler gauge where the adjustment is needed. As you can see, there is a lock nut at the bottom of the bolt.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Those look to be limiting bolts to stop things from coming apart. Do you have any pictures from before you took it apart where you can count the threads?

The three on the lever arms look like they would would be to balance the pressure.

It has been a very long time since I last saw one of those type of clutches, trying to remember how they work.

 

[LouNY]

I have only worked on a one of those and it was a great many years ago;
normally the disc with the larger spline is on the input shaft to your transmission.
The smaller spline is on the shaft going to your pto.
The idea was as you pressed in on the clutch pedal you would release the clutch for the transmission but the pto
would still be powered,
pressing the clutch pedal completely would disengage both clutch discs and allow your pto to stop.
As I'm recalling the bolts you referenced would be activating your main clutch till they bottomed out then further travel would disengage the pto and further disengage the main clutch.

 

[LynnBilodeau]

I am 99% certain that the small spline (3/4 inch 10 spline clutch disc) drives the trans and the large spline (1 3/8 inch 19 spline) clutch drives the PTO. Otherwise, when it did work, there is no way I would have had the smooth engagement I had on the trans.

I have it back together and will be firing it up once I figure out which fluid goes where. Pretty sure I got the adjustment on those bolts figured out. They are all adjusted with .050" play. I think that will work fine, but have an inspection cover I can use to get to them if they need tweaked. An old John Deer mechanic told me the MAIN thing is to be sure they are all uniform, which I did.

Now, the next question. My tractor does NOT have a common sump for trans gear oil and hydraulic fluid. They ARE NOT mixed. I am draining and filling both. I HAD to drain much of the hydraulic fluid when I split the tractor as the lines to the hydraulic pump need to come off.

On the 650G model that does not use a common sump for the two systems, what do I use? I KNOW there will be some on here that say they share a common sump. I PROMISE you, my hydraulics are separate from my trans.

I bought universial hydraulic fluid for the hydralic set up, and am planning (unless i hear otherwise) to use 90 WT gear lube in the trans.

One last question: how do I know how much hydraulic fluid to add? The side plug (discussed on another thread) will assist in determining how much gear oil to put in the trans. There is no such side plug for the hydraulic system. There is no dipstick.

OK, so I lied. One last, last question. I put new bearings in my governor a few years back. I do not remembe adding oil I saw a post indicating 40cc of engin oil in the governor. I can do that easily enough, but have not had any oil in there in a while and it works fine. Should I add 40cc of engin oil to the governor?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[LynnBilodeau]

Found answers to all my questions with a little more digging.

4.5 gallons of 80/90 wt in the trans. One gallon of hydraulic fluid for the 3 pt.

Went ahead and changed the oil. Added 40cc of motor oil to the governor.

Everything works flawlessly. Clutch has never been so smooth and easy. Didn't even need to fine tune.

I have already gotten a LOT of use out of this little tractor, and plan to get a lot more. Only spent $1200 for it about 8 years ago.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Great job!

Sorry, I forgot to restart tapatalk and was not getting updates.

Depending on your fluid specs you might be able to get away with a single bucket of 66 Agri Power Trans fluid for both of those.

Both my hydraulic and gear oil specs happen to fall within that one and it makes it easier on fluid changes only having to keep track of two oils instead of three.
View attachment Phillips_66_Powertran_Fluid_PDS.pdf