Spare/Additional 3PL top link

[bunyip]

Wandered in to a tractor dealer during the week after a 3PL top link as I find adjusting the one I have a PITA when I hook up the grader then adjust again to put the counter weight back on, well, the staff looked at me like I had just arrived from another planet (beam me up Scotty, no intelligent life in this retail shop).
To me it makes sense and saves about 10 minutes of buggerising around when I could be doing something useful and it only costs about AU$50.
Am I so wrong or is this something that others do to save time and much frustration, and the BX counterweight is a sod of a thing to align correctly and not something you can just kick into place weighing in at about 180kg.
What do others do.

 

[jeff9366]

In Florida a Kubota factory Category I, 'Grand L' Top Link is around US/$320. I bought one factory replacement when I stripped the threads on the original which came with my new tractor.

I recently acquired an ABI TR3 Rake, which came with an OEM Top Link, perhaps a tad longer than Kubota's Cat I Top Link.
I am using the Kubota factory Top Link with the TR3 Rake, the one which came OEM with the rake will be a "spare".

If I ever need a third Top Link, I will shop on-line.

So I operate Three Point Hitch implements with one Top Link, which remains attached to the tractor.

 

[oosik]

Three years ago I purchased a hydraulic top link from Brian at Fitritehydraulics. The Kubota dealer gave me an odd ratcheting top link. So now I have three but I keep the hydraulic one on the tractor all the time. The other two have become spares, should I ever need to have the hydraulic one repaired.

 

[motownbrowne]

Yep, hydraulic top link for the win. Mine's nowhere near as beautiful as something Brian makes and I had to fit it and plumb it myself, but it was pretty cheap really. I just bought a cylinder that seemed to be the right length and chopped the clevis ends off. Then I cut the OEM ends off my threaded top link and welded them on the cylinder. A couple of hoses and a splash of spray paint and I've never looked back.

 

[RjCorazza]

Before I got a hydraulic toplink I used separate threaded toplinks for (most) of my implements. Here in the states I got them at Tractor Supply (a discount chain).
My rear snow blower uses both of my rear remotes, so I still have a dedicated manual toplink that stays on the blower.

 

[Gary Fowler]

In Florida a Kubota factory Category I, 'Grand L' Top Link is around US/$320.

That must have a thick gold plating on it. I know Kubota products are outrageously priced but this is insane.

Agri-Supply has hydraulic top links for Cat II for only $139. Manual top links are only about $17. Kubota quality cant be that much better(1880% higher, so I would buy almost 19 of the Agri-supply brand for one Kubota).

 

[Fallon]

That must have a thick gold plating on it. I know Kubota products are outrageously priced but this is insane.

Agri-Supply has hydraulic top links for Cat II for only $139. Manual top links are only about $17. Kubota quality cant be that much better(1880% higher, so I would buy almost 19 of the Agri-supply brand for one Kubota).

Ya, a cheap one from TSC or whatever nearby farm store should be fine. I think I have 3 on a shelf now. No reason to use the OEM one or any of the ones that came with impliments now that I have TnT.

 

[bunyip]

I hear you re the Kubota link, I only want a link not the factory!!!!
A bit hard to justify a hydraulic on a BX and the grader is just for the driveway and probably used twice a year but next on the agenda is a 4' stick rake for the arena and round yard and general clean up of small branches etc after strong winds.
The only other implement I use is the post hole digger which doesn't use the link.
Thanks for the input.

 

[Fallon]

I hear you re the Kubota link, I only want a link not the factory!!!!
A bit hard to justify a hydraulic on a BX and the grader is just for the driveway and probably used twice a year but next on the agenda is a 4' stick rake for the arena and round yard and general clean up of small branches etc after strong winds.
The only other implement I use is the post hole digger which doesn't use the link.
Thanks for the input.

I rebuilt my PHD to be quick hitch compatible on my L3200. Got down pressure on the first foot or 2 of the hole out of the deal as well as I had the hydraulic toplink. But ya, not a stock setup by far. You can find my & others rebuild threads on here if you search for PHD & quick hitch.