Speaking of rebuilding cylinders???

BobReeves · Dec 1, 2005

Both lift cylinders on my loader leak a little, right side more than left. This is on a 71 Ford 3000 with some unknown loader that looks to be about as old as the tractor.

Called a couple places here in town and the going rebuild price seems to be around $150.00 each, assuming all they need is seals. Seems to me I can buy a bunch of tools and seals for $300.00 but have no idea where to start my search for seals much less how to do it.

The attached is a picture of the whole cylinder, end came off rather easily, when I started turning it a wire clip turned out of the split just below the end.

Continued on next post......

BobReeves · Dec 1, 2005

The attached is the piston end and I have no idea of how to proceed from here. Beginning to think I should have left well enough alone and put up with the leaks. Inside the bore I can feel a couple of groves but not deep enough to hook a fingernail on. The rod looks OK as far as I can tell but the bore worries me.

So how do I get the end off the rod, what should I look for that might be bad and where do I look for replacement parts.

Thanks
Bob

JerryG · Dec 1, 2005

Bob,
If you have a Parker hydraulic store in your area and I am sure that you do, Take the parts there and they will have everything that you need.

BobReeves · Dec 1, 2005

Just looked in the phone book, we have a "Parker fluid power" under hydraulic equip. Is the same Parker?

Still not sure how to get the end off the rod without destroying something. It looks to be center punched in 4 places at the threads and all it has to turn it is a fairly shallow hole in the side.

JerryG · Dec 1, 2005

It is the same place. Take it with you and maybe they will give you some tips.

MadReferee · Dec 1, 2005

Try Baileynet. They manufacture Chief cylinders and sell internal cylinder parts to anybody.

Baileynet.com web page

Pks · Dec 1, 2005

Look on the end of the rod at the top of the piston for a circle clip. From the photo you provided, I can almost convince myself that I see one there.

If one exists, then remove it and the piston should either unscrew or slide right off.

However, when I watched a guy in a hydraulic shop install new seals, he left the piston in place and slid the seals over the piston to remove as well as replace them.

cp1969 · Dec 1, 2005

Lip seals are decribed by their dimensions: ID, OD, and thickness. Lots of times, these numbers are written on the seal itself. For instance, if you see 24 37 7 on a seal that means it is 24mm ID, 37mm OD and 7mm thick. At any rate, you can measure all of these dimensions on the seal itself (O.D. and thickness) and mating part (shaft).

There are different kinds of seals--single lip, double lip, low pressure, high pressure, etc. You need to get the right one. I'd ask the shop you talked to as to what specific kind of seal they take.

Before this is all over, though, $150 may sound about right.

markct · Dec 1, 2005

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yea you can do the seals on the piston that way, but not the rod seal, the piston is probably threaded on, you can make a wrench that has a hole to fit the od of the piston and then have a large setscrew that goes into the hole, or a chain wrench or pipe wrench will work, just make sure to file down any burs. as for the tube being a bit rough, what i do is use an engine cylinder hone, the spring loaded type with 3 stones, that i make a long extension for, and then put it in a portable half inch drill and clean it up that way. the good news is that you already got the hardest part done, those little wire clips that hold in the gland on that type cylinder are notorious for rusting in and or breaking off when you try to remove them, but you got that part done just fine

BobReeves · Dec 1, 2005

Thanks for the tips guys, looks like a trip to town tomorrow for a few more tools and cheap kitty litter.

Removing the other cylinder from the tractor I discovered what happens when the end of a cylinder falls on the edge of your drain pan. Thought I had it supported but guess the tractor thought I needed an oil bath /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Hoping I can find a spanner wrench that will fit the rod nut. Still a little worried about what looks to me like the end of the rod nut was peened(sp) into the threads to lock it in place. Guess I'll discover more tomorrow when I try to remove the nut.