Splitting a Ford 2120

[shakenbake2120]

Hello all,

Hopefully some one can help point me in the right direction.

I have a Ford 2120 HSS

Last year i was running it and the tranny started slipping(I was low on oil),,,I noticed below i was blowing hydraulic fluid out of the Hydro case, the one in front of the gear box. There is a drill hole in this case where the oil is coming from...The mechanic told me that this is there because it is a dry case,,,BUT there is also a drain plug right next to it. So i am a little confused...See picture attached.

I went to my local tractor mechanics and they told me they need to split the tractor and replace the seals and all the gears in the gear box will need to be removed and rebuilt.,,,,at a cost of about $2,000,,,,WOW!

I would like to tackle this myself...
My main concern are
#1 it is a seal issue and i am going the right direction
#2 Supporting of the tractor when i split it....ie,,,what type of rigging, jackstand , how many ton jack,,,will my 2.5 ton work etc.


If someone can point me int he right direction it woudl be great.


Thanks
Andy

 

[koamfps]

Holy crap! Mine started leaking in the same spot. When I inquired about the cost all the dealer said was expensive. I guess they weren't lying!!!!! Dang.
Keep us posted I courious to see how it works out for you.
How many hours you got on her? Also did you post on this on the Ford/NH forum? They got some smart guys there!

P.S. I just keep adding hydro oil!!!!!

 

[Kernopelli]

Not familiar with mechanical aspects of that machine, but looking at parts diagrams on Messicks NH of "front HSS trans case", it appears there are separate $1050 disc sets and a $503 clutch pack in there as well as gears. Since the case also contains some gears it is hard to believe it is a dry case ( looks like it probably has a wet clutch etc, not dry).

If this is the very front case ( looks like a bell housing), it contains a common style clutch ( pressure plate, disc, T.O bearing) as well ($594) and it probably should be dry. No gears present here. If it ( clutch disc) somehow became contaminated with oil, that's easy to understand why it's slipping. My question is, if they haven't split the tractor, how do they know exactly what is wrong with it ( what all it needs)? It looks like what should be a dry case contains no gears as claimed and the case with gears appears to be wet ( have hyd fluid in it)

Either way....sounds like a clutch is slipping.....I just am a little uncertain which one you are referring to.

Have you put hydraulic fluid in it and seen how it operates when full of fluid ( yes it will leak out but top it off and see if it still slips)? Maybe the slipping was just a symptom of low oil and little "damage" was actually done.

Frankly, with the little knowledge and info I have, it sounds like the mechanic is putting the cart before the horse and making some pretty expensive assumptions that may not be correct.

As far as splitting it....separate the halves, block one half and use a rolling jack to pull the other half away. 2,5 ton jack is sufficient.

 

[shakenbake2120]

When it first slipped i shut the tractor off because it stopped moving,,then i let it cool down,,,once cooled down it would run fine again and then start sliiping after it warmed back up about 4-5 minutes...after i got it back to the house i realized i was 2 quarts low of fluid. Fill it back up and she gets around fine now,,,,but still have that dam leak.

Should i just split it and see what is going on?

 

[Zebrafive]

When it first slipped i shut the tractor off because it stopped moving,,then i let it cool down,,,once cooled down it would run fine again and then start sliiping after it warmed back up about 4-5 minutes...after i got it back to the house i realized i was 2 quarts low of fluid. Fill it back up and she gets around fine now,,,,but still have that dam leak.

Should i just split it and see what is going on?

Sounds like you have some type of hydraulic clutch in the trans, since topping fluids stops the slipping. Plus a dry clutch in the bell housing.
Since you say it is leaking into the bell housing it's only a matter of time until the dry clutch is ruined. You need to find out which side of the transmission the front seal is installed from and the make the split and repair it. If it is replaced from the inside of the transmission you need to split at the transmission to differential. If from the clutch side, split trans to bell housing.

When I split my 2030 I used wood to wedge the front pivot points of the front axle. Blocked the rear wheels. Put a jack stand under the drawbar to prevent jacking to high. A floor jack at the front of the rear half of the split. I made a U shaped piece that bolts to the sides of the engine block at the rear of the engine. On the bottom of the U is an ACME threaded rod with a large caster wheel for height adjustment. I roll the front half forward and do not move the rear half.

 

[Kernopelli]

If you are inclined to fix the issue yourself I say yes, split the tractor. I have done several and it isn't a "huge" job, easily accomplished over a weekend. Most common "split" is at the engine/bellhousing for main clutch repair but it sounds like your leak is between the "bellhouse" and "front trans case". From the parts diagrams it looks like this also gives you access to the shuttle valve too. Since this operates hydraulically, I wonder if it could be a leak it those components? It appears from the diagram that this would allow fluid in the bellhouse case.

IMO ( this is an opinion. I again stress I'm not familiar with your machine or a "mechanic" and simply making remarks based on parts diagrams and symptoms) I don't think it sounds like you need "new gears" or a "rebuild", it sounds like it's a leaking seal between the trans case and bellhousing, , possibly a leaking trans shaft seal or maybe a leaking HSS component?

I agree also that if everything functions correctly until the fluid becomes low then working again when topped off, that is probably a symptom of the HSS clutch.....probably starts slipping when starved for fluid/ or hyd pressure at low level.

I DO recommend you get a service manual ( if you don't have one) before doing anything. It can give you insight into troubleshooting and repairing this issue as well as any other you may have in the future.

 

[Hunchback]

Mine also leaked in that spot. I sold the tractor to my brother & didn't want it leaking so I had the dealer pick it up & transport it 225 miles to his shop. He split it and repaired it, transported to my brothers 25 miles away. It had a cab on it to. Transport and repair was about $2000. eight yrs ago. Sounds like there is a common problem.