jabiru
New member
I have decided to split my tractor to free the stuck pto clutch from the flywheel, does anyone have any advice on how to do this properly and safely.
Thanks
Thanks
GuglioLS
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 1,155
- Location
- Edgewood, NM USA
- Tractor
- Jinma 354, 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee, Komatsu Bulldozer
Get it on solid level smooth ground, place plywood underneath if necessary.
Block front and back of front wheels on both sides to make sure it can not move. Keep rear wheels free.
Use large wood blocks to support underneath just forward of the clutch bell housing. Use a Large rolling hydraulic jack to support the transmission about mid way of the transmission.
Remove all the "stuff" to get the tractor in half.
Get at least 3 of your "mates" to help you.
1 on each back wheel
1 to Maneuver the jack and 1 to watch everything.
The two on the back wheels will grab hold of the wheels and slowly rotate the back half of the tractor away from the front half. The Person on the jack will make sure the jack rolls with the back half of the tractor.
Let us know how it goes.
!!! POST PICTURES !!!!
Block front and back of front wheels on both sides to make sure it can not move. Keep rear wheels free.
Use large wood blocks to support underneath just forward of the clutch bell housing. Use a Large rolling hydraulic jack to support the transmission about mid way of the transmission.
Remove all the "stuff" to get the tractor in half.
Get at least 3 of your "mates" to help you.
1 on each back wheel
1 to Maneuver the jack and 1 to watch everything.
The two on the back wheels will grab hold of the wheels and slowly rotate the back half of the tractor away from the front half. The Person on the jack will make sure the jack rolls with the back half of the tractor.
Let us know how it goes.
!!! POST PICTURES !!!!
RonMar
Elite Member
Jabiru
I would do anything I could do to avoid having to split that beast in two. I read back through your original post and although I am not specifically familliar with your tractor, I am making an assumption from the pictures posted by the gentelman in France with the burnt up clutch, that it has a clutch pack similar to my 284. If so, it should look like the ones in these links.
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/files/DualClutch.jpg
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/JMClutchAdj.html
The 284 has 2 inspection holes, each about 3 X 5 inches on the left and right sides of the tractor. I don't know what yours has for a inspection hole but you said you were able to see BOTH of the pressure plates lift when the clutch pedal was depressed. If you were able to see BOTH plates lift(clutch fingers lift the first plate, first plate lifts the second plate), I don't see how it can be that stuck. I mean I have worked with lots of rusted metal and metal to metal will fuse, but the clutch friction disks are not metal(well not entirely). If the second pressure plate is lifting, you should be able to apply enough torque to the PTO shaft to get things moving with the clutch pedal fully depressed. I could see the clutch plates being fused together where they overlap and that second PTO pressure plate(most forward one) not moving, but if it is moving, you should be able to get that PTO disk to break free.
Again, I don't know what access your inspection hole allows, but if it will allow you to get some tools on the adjustment bolts, there is one or two other things you could try.
1. Tighten up the nuts/bolts that lift the PTO plate(see clutch adjustment link above). I would reccomend marking them with a paint pen and counting the ammount you tighten the nuts so you can return them to the original position later. Next you could adjust out most of the freeplay on the clutch pedal by unscrewing(lengthening) the threaded pushrod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch lever arm. This will move the throwout bearing forward. Move it forward till it just about contacts the clutch release levers. Either of These two things should cause the PTO disk pressure plate to lift farther away from the flywheel. Place the PTO speed selector in the 1000 RPM position for better mechanical advantage when turning from the PTO output shaft end. Engage the PTO ENG/DIS lever. Slide a PTO driveshaft onto the splined PTO output shaft. Have a mate fully depress the clutch pedal and apply a pipe wrench to the driveshaft coupling u-joint assembly you slid over the PTO output shaft. If you don't have a wrench that big, you could also try a 2-3' piece of flat bar stock slid through the u joint on the PTO driveshaft to try and rotate the shaft. That tractor is rated at probably 30 PTO HP. 30HP is 16,500 FT-LB/SEC. I think you would be hard pressed to break anything in the geartrain with a couple feet of lever, as long as you are not pounding on it.
2. Perform the same clutch adjustments mentioned in step one above. You said you have a "4.6' slasher" for a mower. Does it look like the one pictured at this website?
http://www.metalcraftinternational.com/slashers.html
If so, it has 3" wide X 1/2" thick blades and is what we call a "brushhog". It will also cut a lot more than just grass /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have a 5' one on my 284 and I routinely push down 2" and larger trees/bushes with the front end loader, drive right over them till they get back to the mower where it reduces them to wood chips If yours is like the one pictured, Attach your mower to your tractor, set the PTO for 540 and get things running and warmed up. With the 3PH fully raised and the engine RPM up onto the green full power PTO area, back up to a brush pile, preferably something with some big stalks in it, 1-2" in diameter. Or you could back it over a large bush/small tree in the raised position, removing the top of the bush/tree. Depress the clutch pedal fully and lower the spinning mower deck down onto the pile or bush stump to put some load on the system. If it is a slasher series, they all appear to come with a 40HP gearbox and slip clutch so this should be no problem for the equipment.
If these fail and you still need to split the tractor, the following link may help with the mechanics of the procedure. Scroll down the page to "Service Advisory 10" It is for a 284 series jinma but the procedure and precautions will basically be the same.
http://www.tractor-outlet.com/toservice3.html
Good Luck Mate
I would do anything I could do to avoid having to split that beast in two. I read back through your original post and although I am not specifically familliar with your tractor, I am making an assumption from the pictures posted by the gentelman in France with the burnt up clutch, that it has a clutch pack similar to my 284. If so, it should look like the ones in these links.
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/files/DualClutch.jpg
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/JMClutchAdj.html
The 284 has 2 inspection holes, each about 3 X 5 inches on the left and right sides of the tractor. I don't know what yours has for a inspection hole but you said you were able to see BOTH of the pressure plates lift when the clutch pedal was depressed. If you were able to see BOTH plates lift(clutch fingers lift the first plate, first plate lifts the second plate), I don't see how it can be that stuck. I mean I have worked with lots of rusted metal and metal to metal will fuse, but the clutch friction disks are not metal(well not entirely). If the second pressure plate is lifting, you should be able to apply enough torque to the PTO shaft to get things moving with the clutch pedal fully depressed. I could see the clutch plates being fused together where they overlap and that second PTO pressure plate(most forward one) not moving, but if it is moving, you should be able to get that PTO disk to break free.
Again, I don't know what access your inspection hole allows, but if it will allow you to get some tools on the adjustment bolts, there is one or two other things you could try.
1. Tighten up the nuts/bolts that lift the PTO plate(see clutch adjustment link above). I would reccomend marking them with a paint pen and counting the ammount you tighten the nuts so you can return them to the original position later. Next you could adjust out most of the freeplay on the clutch pedal by unscrewing(lengthening) the threaded pushrod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch lever arm. This will move the throwout bearing forward. Move it forward till it just about contacts the clutch release levers. Either of These two things should cause the PTO disk pressure plate to lift farther away from the flywheel. Place the PTO speed selector in the 1000 RPM position for better mechanical advantage when turning from the PTO output shaft end. Engage the PTO ENG/DIS lever. Slide a PTO driveshaft onto the splined PTO output shaft. Have a mate fully depress the clutch pedal and apply a pipe wrench to the driveshaft coupling u-joint assembly you slid over the PTO output shaft. If you don't have a wrench that big, you could also try a 2-3' piece of flat bar stock slid through the u joint on the PTO driveshaft to try and rotate the shaft. That tractor is rated at probably 30 PTO HP. 30HP is 16,500 FT-LB/SEC. I think you would be hard pressed to break anything in the geartrain with a couple feet of lever, as long as you are not pounding on it.
2. Perform the same clutch adjustments mentioned in step one above. You said you have a "4.6' slasher" for a mower. Does it look like the one pictured at this website?
http://www.metalcraftinternational.com/slashers.html
If so, it has 3" wide X 1/2" thick blades and is what we call a "brushhog". It will also cut a lot more than just grass /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have a 5' one on my 284 and I routinely push down 2" and larger trees/bushes with the front end loader, drive right over them till they get back to the mower where it reduces them to wood chips If yours is like the one pictured, Attach your mower to your tractor, set the PTO for 540 and get things running and warmed up. With the 3PH fully raised and the engine RPM up onto the green full power PTO area, back up to a brush pile, preferably something with some big stalks in it, 1-2" in diameter. Or you could back it over a large bush/small tree in the raised position, removing the top of the bush/tree. Depress the clutch pedal fully and lower the spinning mower deck down onto the pile or bush stump to put some load on the system. If it is a slasher series, they all appear to come with a 40HP gearbox and slip clutch so this should be no problem for the equipment.
If these fail and you still need to split the tractor, the following link may help with the mechanics of the procedure. Scroll down the page to "Service Advisory 10" It is for a 284 series jinma but the procedure and precautions will basically be the same.
http://www.tractor-outlet.com/toservice3.html
Good Luck Mate
for safety reasons, I would high suggest renting 2 crane hoists. This will allow you to seperate them easier, and safier. You still need to block them once seperated. It also makes things easier to reposition. You should be able to rent them for cheap over the weekend.
tat2z1969
Silver Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have decided to split my tractor to free the stuck pto clutch from the flywheel, does anyone have any advice on how to do this properly and safely.
Thanks
)</font>
I have broke apart well over 100 tractors and this is how I do it.
I block up the front half and back half of the tractor seperatly with wood blocks, the back half the top blocks are 4x4's 4 foot long and run from the front of the trans to the rear and I nail it together, I grease the top 4x4s on the back half, take a come along and pull the back half, backwards. When i put it back together I move the come along to the front and pull the rear back to the engine, if you need to raise the trans a little a few wood wedges tapped under the trans picks it right up and easy to control.
I can break a 354 jinma by myself in 45 minutes.
Thanks
)</font>
I have broke apart well over 100 tractors and this is how I do it.
I block up the front half and back half of the tractor seperatly with wood blocks, the back half the top blocks are 4x4's 4 foot long and run from the front of the trans to the rear and I nail it together, I grease the top 4x4s on the back half, take a come along and pull the back half, backwards. When i put it back together I move the come along to the front and pull the rear back to the engine, if you need to raise the trans a little a few wood wedges tapped under the trans picks it right up and easy to control.
I can break a 354 jinma by myself in 45 minutes.
Thanks for the great advice, I will try your method first before I take the tractor apart, and yes my slasher is like the one pictured on that site. I will let you know how it turns out,
Again, thanks everybody.
PS If it does have to come apart I will post shots of the procedure.
Again, thanks everybody.
PS If it does have to come apart I will post shots of the procedure.
Hi, Just to let you know that I managed to free the Secondary clutch by your method of putting some force onto a pto shaft end with a long metal pipe while depressing the clutch, It did'nt work first time so I emptied a can of pressurised brake cleaner onto the pressure plate,tried again and it freed itself, so a very big thanks to all with there advice, invaluable stuff you saved me a lot of trouble splitting the tractor.
Thanks Mate.
Thanks Mate.
RonMar
Elite Member
No Worries, glad it worked out. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif