Splitting a MF 250....wish me luck.

[Dredwolf]

I managed to locate another transmission housing for my MF 250 that my dad bought in 1985. Some of you may have seen the thread where my son's overly optimistic use of the FEL broke the housing in 2011, and it happened again recently. Besides the fact that my son is over-working the FEL, I have to get this tractor fixed. Splitting the tractor twice, moving the transmission components from one housing to another was $$$ last time, this time, I have to do it myself (with my son's REQUIRED help) as we just don't have the $$ to pay anyone to do it.

I am a decent fabricator, and I have looked at some splitting jigs I can fabricate with steel I already have to make this a little easier, and an okay mechanic (do all my 4x4, engine, axle, and manual tranny work), and I have the manuals on the way.

My garage is unfortunately over-flowing with stuff from the house, but the loss of the tractor is a sufficient disaster that my wife and kids are working overtime to donate, sell, and clear their stuff out of my garage, so I can have my concrete floor (and heat during the winter) back.

Any useful tips to share on splitting? I understand this 250 is very similar to the more common 230-245 tractors, so any tips or tricks are welcomed, I'll refrain from asking for prayers until it's apart.

 

[mkreitler]

Take your time like most of us you have more time than money.So with that said winter coming on. Waite for the service manuals and with all the help you have make it a fun and learning experience for you and your son. After it's all over and finished up you can pat yourselves on the back knowing it was done to your satisfaction. Now that is peace of mind in my book. GOOD LUCK!!!

 

[Kenneth S]

If the loader frame doesn't go all the back to the rear axle (which I'm pretty sure it doesn't by the sound of it). I'd fabricate some kind of removeable rear frame work for the loader frame that bolts to the rear axle/differential housing so the transmission case doesn't have to handle all the load/stress put on it by itself.

 

[Dredwolf]

If the loader frame doesn't go all the back to the rear axle (which I'm pretty sure it doesn't by the sound of it). I'd fabricate some kind of removeable rear frame work for the loader frame that bolts to the rear axle/differential housing so the transmission case doesn't have to handle all the load/stress put on it by itself.

I am giving that some serious thought, and trying to come up with a design. With the horizontal exhaust, the "belly bracket" for the 232 loader does not even use all the existing bosses in the casing. And to make it worse, after getting the bracket over on smooth concrete, the 1/2" plate that makes up the bottom plate of the bracket is bent this time....I'll have to find someone with a 50 ton press to flatten it again.

 

[Dredwolf]

Take your time like most of us you have more time than money.So with that said winter coming on. Waite for the service manuals and with all the help you have make it a fun and learning experience for you and your son. After it's all over and finished up you can pat yourselves on the back knowing it was done to your satisfaction. Now that is peace of mind in my book. GOOD LUCK!!!

Well said. I am probably going to go ahead and replace the clutch while I am in there, and inspect the hydraulic pump, and maybe get another 20 years out of it.

 

[Kenneth S]

It's easy enough to redo the exhaust, all the horizontal exhaust does is make you sit in a cloud of dust, and exhaust fumes. The 2135 I bought had horizontal exhaust on it, before I got it running I switched over to vertical exhaust.

 

[redman135]

Front axle :hammer wood wedges on BOTH sides of axle to stop engine falling over when the gearbox is removed. Use jack if you have 2, 1 to support the front and 2nd (trolley type) to support the back, and roll the rear back to get at the gear box.
You have more leverage on the back wheels and this is a big help in lining up and bolting back together.