Splitting the Mahindra 4110 for Clutch Change Tips

[steve flint]

I am pretty mechanically inclined and have worked on almost every kind of vehicle there is, but i know there are hard learned lessons in every new job you take on. Has anyone done a split and clutch change on a Mahindra 4110 and what were the toughest parts and what things should i not over look. There are several wires and hoses and i was wondering which ones have to be disconnected and how do you get the 2 top engine bolts out behind the dash? Do I have to completely remove the dash panel, any tips will be appreciated and I will post my experience back to help others after i check out and see why my clutch will not disengage?

Thanks

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Be sure to put blocks between the front axil and the tractor frame, or it will want to tip on you. Other than that, I have never split a 4110 at the clutch housing. I have split one further back at the transmission, but not at the clutch housing.

 

[johnsonauto]

I am pretty mechanically inclined and have worked on almost every kind of vehicle there is, but i know there are hard learned lessons in every new job you take on. Has anyone done a split and clutch change on a Mahindra 4110 and what were the toughest parts and what things should i not over look. There are several wires and hoses and i was wondering which ones have to be disconnected and how do you get the 2 top engine bolts out behind the dash? Do I have to completely remove the dash panel, any tips will be appreciated and I will post my experience back to help others after i check out and see why my clutch will not disengage?
Thanks

You need to disconnect the wiring, steering hoses on the right side of the tractor, remove the dash and cowling, pull the bolts at the floor pan that hold the steering unit and pedal asy. clutch and brake linkages to pedals etc and lift off the asy. now you have access to all the bolts. If you pedal feels spongy and wont disengage it probably broke a finger on the pressure plate, if it feels normal then i would guess the pilot bearing seized. When your go to put it back together make sure you put the pilot bearing in the flywheel not the crankshaft.

 

[DavesTractor]

Johnson Auto, excellent advice. We have done a few of these over the years and they are a chore. I think you hit all the high points. And we have seen a guy install the pilot bearing in the crank instead of the flywheel and the tractor then has to be split again. Nice of you to think of that finer point.

 

[coffeeman]

Hi all.
If Mahindra 4110 never had clutch adjusted since new. I don't feel it slipping yet. I fear my nephew was mowing in high grass using high gear in high range. I asked him if he was riding clutch in high gear. Especially using clutch to let engine catch up speed and then popping in higher gears to get moving or riding.. It's just a suspicion. I suspect because more than once my Mahindra was shut down in high high. But, In any case, can a first clutch adjustment be done easily? Is it likely to help? It seemed I noticed change in clutch function in last 2-3 week period. The grass was unusually high during that time.

Sometime I wonder, what would make me think all young folks are easy on equipment. But, I do know young people who are good operating.

Cheers..........Coffeeman

 

[skipmarcy]

Clutch adjustment is kinda tedious on the 4110, in a bad spot to get wrenches on the adjuster and locknuts. Just look between the rear of the engine and that frame for the glass shield on the left and move the clutch pedal with your hand a little and you will see the linkage that you need to adjust. Get a wrench on the adjuster body to hold it while you break the locknuts loose - one is right-hand thread, the other is left-hand. Turn the adjuster body to lengthen or shorten the linkage to get your freeplay, then tighten the locknuts. I eventually cut a small hole in the floorpan to get wrenches in there easier - engineers could have thought of this I would think, but you know how all that goes ....

 

[coffeeman]

Clutch adjustment is kinda tedious on the 4110, in a bad spot to get wrenches on the adjuster and locknuts. Just look between the rear of the engine and that frame for the glass shield on the left and move the clutch pedal with your hand a little and you will see the linkage that you need to adjust. Get a wrench on the adjuster body to hold it while you break the locknuts loose - one is right-hand thread, the other is left-hand. Turn the adjuster body to lengthen or shorten the linkage to get your freeplay, then tighten the locknuts. I eventually cut a small hole in the floorpan to get wrenches in there easier - engineers could have thought of this I would think, but you know how all that goes ....

hi there

Where would you adjust peddle to ? About 1/2 way or closer in or out?

Cheers......Coffeeman

 

[CincyFlyer]

hi there

Where would you adjust peddle to ? About 1/2 way or closer in or out?

Cheers......Coffeeman

Certainly, as long as you have free play in the system when everything is warmed up, you'll be OK. I have just under an inch of free play at the clutch pedal.

 

[DavesTractor]

1" of free play at the pedal is a good rule of thumb on most tractors.

 

[skipmarcy]

I agree with the 1" or a little more for my particular use as I do a lot of loader & boxblade work and I keep my foot just barely on the pedal a lot for shuttle shifting. I like having a little extra play so I'm not likely to slip the clutch much. I don't want to have to push the pedal down all the way down to the floor to disengage the clutch either so I try to get it balanced the way I prefer. I haven't worn a disc or release bearing out in almost 3000 hrs this way. When I damage a clutch it's one of the 3 bolts that operate the pressure plate that breaks and the clutch won't disengage. I'll split it and replace the PP with a reman or make a replacement bolt. I wish they had a stronger designed PP for this tractor - those bolts and the finger pivot mounts need to be beefier sized, the bolts are already grade 8 but too small for the load.