Sprayer Sprayer Flushing

cedarman · May 18, 2005

Just got my 55 gal 3pt sprayer 100" 5 nozzle boom from Shaben Industries. Hooked it to the 3pt and filled with water for testing on leaks and pattern. Works fine. Will point out that the handgun with 25' hose is on the hookup side and therefore I have to remove the Imatch-no Big deal but inconvient. Have read much but would like to know how many gallons of water to run through for flushing 2-4d out of the 6roller pump? Their manual recommends putting antifreeze in the pump for lubrication-50%water mix. They say to remove inlet hose and hand rotate the pump a couple of times. Is this how you guys do it? I saw Indydirtfarmer likes diesel but do you go about it the same way or can you pour some in the tank and pto it through pump and spray tips. Also think I'll spring for some of the 10# psi no leak tips as when I shut off the pto the water still drips for a little while.

beenthere · May 18, 2005

I don't have one that big, but after emptying the tank of whatever I am spraying (2-4D, roundup, fertilizer), I dilute with a few gallons of water, and run it empty again (through the nozzles), and then flush one more time with what is left diluted with water.
I've never had a problem or any indication that anything stays 'dormant' and causes a problem later (i.e. that after spraying roundup, I had a problem while spraying fertilizer).

The antifreeze sounds like a good habit to get into, as it will offer some protection to the pump if the temp gets below freezing and one didn't remember to do it before that 'night'. Maybe the rust idea would be a good reason to do it as well. Hadn't thought of that. On my old roller pump, I would put some oil in it, and roll it around in there when storing it away.

I like your min 10 psi nozzle tip idea. Didn't realize they were available. Will look into them for sure. Thanks.

tomnky · May 18, 2005

I just bought five of the TeeJet nozzle bodies with caps,50 mesh tip strainers and Turbo TeeJet Nozzles with a couple of clamps for something along the order of $80.00

willywildes · May 18, 2005

I rinse tank and spray boom twice with water. drain sprayer filter. take off pump spray inside roller pump with oil or wd40 put end caps back on pump. and store.

Indydirtfarmer · May 19, 2005

I don't have pictures at this time (but maybe I should take a couple...) but I added "couplings" on the inlet and outlet lines, just inches away from my roller pump. (I used pipe unions) That allows me to remove the pump from the sprayers "plumbing". I pour the diesel directly into the pump, then store in above the work bench.

The Tee Jet "no-drip" check valves are the ticket! Not that expensive, and they work .like a charm. You just can't do any better than that.

They should be "standard equipment" on all sprayers, in my opinion.

I use a "tank wash" solution in my sprayers after completing use. (They're available at TSC, or through all the popular "mail order houses") 2,4-D will chemically "bond" with most plastics... It's essential to wash it out correctly, or you might just end up killing something you don't want to... Glyphosate and most liquid fertilizers are corrosive. It's best to flush them out.

Some people use vinager to wash out sprayer tanks...

Better safe than sorry.....

Glenn9643 · May 19, 2005

First, I try to use a separate sprayer for herbicides. After spraying I fill and flush with fresh water twice. On the third "rinse" I mix about 1 quart of household amonia with 25 gallons of water as a neutralizer. You can buy neutralizers for this purpose, but a friend who farms big-time suggested this to me and I've had no problems yet.

Indydirtfarmer · May 19, 2005

( First, I try to use a separate sprayer for herbicides. After spraying I fill and flush with fresh water twice. On the third "rinse" I mix about 1 quart of household amonia with 25 gallons of water as a neutralizer. You can buy neutralizers for this purpose, but a friend who farms big-time suggested this to me and I've had no problems yet. )

I farm a little under 1400 acres. I have 2 sprayers. One is a bigger, self-propelled Hahn sprayer. #2 is a small Fimco 3-point sprayer I use for spot-spraying. In the case of the bigger one, I'm looking at $75,000 replacement cost AS A USED ITEM, and MAYBE $200,000 or more new... That makes having 2 EXTREMELY cost prohibitive.... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I've used ammonia, vinager, and "patented" tank wash solutions. All have their place.

I must be certified and licensed to use some of the pesticides I use, as well as to be able to spray on land I don't own. (ALSO, I do some "for hire" spraying) Part of the requirements for certification is to keep well documented records on the use of a sprayer. I feel it's "more presentable" to the inspector (in the event of an inspection of my records) if I use a designated tank wash product. Perception being greater than reality in some cases, I want it to look like I'm doing EVERYTHING possible to be in compliance with the laws on pesticide useage.

tjkadar · May 19, 2005

I use ammonia to clean out my tank after using 2-4-D. About two gallons of ammonia for 50 gallons of water.

TNhobbyfarmer · May 19, 2005

I don't have pictures at this time (but maybe I should take a couple...) but I added "couplings" on the inlet and outlet lines, just inches away from my roller pump. (I used pipe unions) 

Hey Indy......When you get a chance, how about taking a couple of pictures. I'd like to see what you have done.

bigpete · May 19, 2005

Nutra-sol. A powdered soluable cleaner/neutralizer. I pick up a bottle or two every year at Tractor Supply. I have a 25 gallon sprayer I use for everything so I need to make certain I get all traces of 2,4-d and other herbicides out of the lines, fittings, gaskets, etc., before I spray trees, for example. I'm sure they all have their place, but I'm sticking with a pretty inexpensive product that has never let me down. I also remove the roller pump, use WD-40 or diesel and make sure I remove all nozzles and bleed my lines when I am done for the year.