stabilization suggestions for B3030HSDC

soxfan · Dec 10, 2006

Hi guys, I am looking for suggestions for stabilizing my B3030HSDC. I have done some looking around in past posts and have gotten some good ideas. I plan of filling the tires with something this spring and have also seen posts about wheel extentions and I just read a post in another thread about 5 bags of quick crete in a weight box but not sure what is meant by the weight box. Anyway, I just want to be as safe as possible and thought this would also be a good reference for others looking to fix the same potential problem. Most of us have been in that, "white knuckle" position on a hill where we feel we are tipping a little bit too far. Thanks in advance for the help.

johnk · Dec 10, 2006

Try to go straight up and down the hills if possible. Wideming the stance of the tires and loaded tires is the best fix...

DAP · Dec 11, 2006

soxfan said:
Hi guys, I am looking for suggestions for stabilizing my B3030HSDC. I have done some looking around in past posts and have gotten some good ideas. I plan of filling the tires with something this spring and have also seen posts about wheel extentions and I just read a post in another thread about 5 bags of quick crete in a weight box but not sure what is meant by the weight box. Anyway, I just want to be as safe as possible and thought this would also be a good reference for others looking to fix the same potential problem. Most of us have been in that, "white knuckle" position on a hill where we feel we are tipping a little bit too far. Thanks in advance for the help.

Do these in order and before proceeding on any slopes with your tractor:

1. Collect as much common sense as you can find and keep it at your finger tips. Use it every time you operate your machine(s).
2. Buy a tilt meter and install it on the tractor that will be tackling these slopes.
3. Do everything possible to lower your center of gravity:

A. Filled Tires
B. Weight Box or other rear weight (Weight Box: usually a 3ph implement that is a hollow container that can be filled (usually permanently) with concrete that hardens once in the box. Most tractor dealers or ag stores sell weight boxes. Not generally expensive.
C. If you have a front end loader (FEL), whether empty or full, keep it as low as possible to the ground when moving.

4. ALWAYS try and go up or down slopes at 90 degrees, NEVER drive up or down a slope on an angle.
5. UNDERSTAND that it takes VERY LITTLE to roll a tractor which is inherently unstable and center/or top heavy. A down slope rock or 2 inch hole meeting a front tire would be all that is required to test your ROPS (flip you over).

Some things are best learned from reading, not necessarily from experience.

lawn_king · Dec 12, 2006

I have an 05 B3030 HSDC, i have the rears (turf) filled with rim guard & it helps a lot. The ac unit up top as well as the cab in general raise your c.o.g. small price to pay for that cab! Go easy, common sense, tilt meter if you wish, you will learn in time, its limitations.

soxfan · Dec 13, 2006

great advice all thanks. What can I expect to pay for the rim guard fill Lawn king?

lawn_king · Dec 13, 2006

I think it ran around $300.

asmithcars · Dec 13, 2006

I have a B3030 and for what's its worth....I just put rear wheel spacers on to gain enough room for chains in anticipation of snow or ice. (Tires too close to fender to install chains with significant interference.) I'm uncertain as to how much added stability I've gained by a wider rear track, but its got to help some. And, fyi...I got the spacer kit from my Kubota dealer -- priced at $203 if I remember correctly. The kit included the 2 spacers (approx 2" ea.), new longer wheel studs, washers, and nuts. It took me about 2 hours to make the switch 'cause a couple of the original studs didn't want to come out. Hope this helps more than confuses.

IslandTractor · Dec 13, 2006

DAP said:
2. Buy a tilt meter and install it on the tractor that will be tackling these slopes.

.........
5. UNDERSTAND that it takes VERY LITTLE to roll a tractor which is inherently unstable and center/or top heavy. A down slope rock or 2 inch hole meeting a front tire would be all that is required to test your ROPS (flip you over).

I have to politely disagree about the benefits of a tilt meter. I think they are overrated as safety devices. Yes, you can learn what the angle of a slope is but most people have a built in pucker meter that is actually faster reacting and just about as precise. More importantly, a tilt meter does not help at all with the dynamic situation that almost all roll overs result from. When your downhill front tire drops into a hole you will flip before the meter responds even if you were staring at it. Likewise if your up hill tire rolls over a rock or bump. It is safer to watch carefully for those sorts of "high side, low side" dangers than to take your eyes off the "road" and watch the tiltmeter.

Having said that I found it interesting to calibrate my personal pucker meter and so I now know that my sphincter is close to max at just over 15 degrees which is still 5 degrees or so from unstable (static). If I did not have a tiltmeter (which I do) it would make essentially no difference to my decisions about manuvering on slopes.

I agree with the rest of the comments in the quoted post but I think there was a mistake in referring to the danger of a "down slope rock"...it is a down slope hole or a up slope rock that are dangerous.