Standing Seam Metal Roofing

[KWentling]

Was wondering if anyone has done their own hidden fastener snap together roofing? I'm adding an attached garage and want to reroof the house to match. House has shingles now. I've done a few pole barns and one steel building so working with the pro rib style materials is familiar and I have the tools. The roof is 5/12 pitch and will have 6 valleys.
I inquired at Menards about ordering the steel and they told me I'd have to draw out the roof in scale to determine the length of panels in the valleys. In this computer age is there not a program that you can plug the dimensions in and it gives you a list of the lengths required? I can do it by hand if I need to but that seems odd to me. The stuff is kind of pricey and want to minimize waste if I go with the steel.
Anyone have likes or dislikes with their steel roofs? Would you do it again? Suggestions? My main concerns are what hail would do to the appearance and snow sliding off taking the rain gutters with it (I know they have snow jacks). Standing on a 5/12 pitch could be an issue too. If I don't use the steel I'll go back with laminated architectural 30 year shingles. Any input?

TIA Kim

 

[hr3]

Same thing I'm thinking about doing next summer,, hope you get some reply s

 

[firedog]

I put one on last year. 40% is on a 6/12 & 60% is on a 10/12 .
5/12 shouldn't be bad at all.

This is the roofing I used: Metal Sales - Image II

roofing panels are 16" wide and cut to your lengths.
additional components (rakewall, ridge cap, cleats, end rake, valleys, etc.) come in 10' lengths. With the hidden fastener setup, the cleat & extended eve should bring you about 2" past the fascia. Measure 1" from peak (if using ridge vents) to 2" past fascia for panel lengths.
panels where valleys exist, can be cut shorter but pay close attention to measurements (I'd cut them a few inches long).
The standing seam panels go straight on the decking (with underlayment of course) not on lathing.

I am well pleased with the roof. no additional noise.
We don't have snow here & hail has never been more than marble size.
There were times during the installation on the 10/12 I wished I'd paid somebody to do it though. I made a few visits to the chiropractor.

 

[Tig]

I did a 6:12 steel roof on my garage two winters ago. (32" wide sheets) I did the ridge cap when it was wet. That was tiring on the legs. Standing on it dry is not a problem. On my FIL's advice I strapped the roof on 20" center instead of 24. A bit more lumber but was a much nicer spacing to work on. (heels on one board knees on the other) I also put a layer of Tyvek house wrap down under the steel to help reduce sweating. I hear tar paper also works very well.
Falling snow is a concern. It will pound anything beneath it when it slides. Ice or half frozen snow is worse . That stuff really flies off the roof when the sun sets it free. I'm going to add a peak over the doors to control the mess and prevent injuries.

 

[KWentling]

Thanks for the replies! Great information. Can't even imagine trying to stay on a 10/12 roof. Even a 4/12 is slick with dew or dust on it. With exposed fasteners you can get traction on the screw heads. Not so with the hidden fasteners. The metal Menards sells is 28 gage. I know I can get the same Metal Sales roof in your link locally. That's the brand I used on the pole barns. So did you scale your roof out on graph paper to get your lengths at the valleys? Still think there has to be a program that would do that. Remember the cost of materials per square? Did you order extra for mistakes? I know how the snow can come crashing down off a roof. My shop has some impressive avalanches at times.
Anyone else?

Kim

 

[firedog]

The only valleys I had were at the porch roof and the cricket at the chimney.
I didn't shorted any considering the chimney but did on the roof connecting to the porch. I just measured the distance from the side wall to the start of the valley and to the peak of the porch dormer and from the peak of the roof down to the peak of the porch dormer. I then sketched out on paper based on the widths of the panels, how the panel would layout and gave myself a couple of inches for stupidity's sake.
I ordered an additional panel for each of the long lengths (one extra for the 6/12 & one extra for the 10/12) just in case.
the 6/12 was not too bad too work. Dust on the roof will put you on the ground in a hurry. I took one section of a extension ladder and fashioned my own roof ladder to work the 10/12. (roof ladder - Google Search

 

[firedog]

 

[firedog]

I also replace all the fascia and soffit (sp?) with hardi plank. Still working on the wood siding replacement.

 

[dfkrug]

I installed a hidden fastener standing seam roof on my workshop. I planned
to use the same system for my house, but I discovered that it did not
work well with offset gables, so I used conventional shingles there.

My workshop is only 3:12 pitch, but it sure is slippery to walk on (dry).
Simple design with only 2 planes, and no valleys.

The hardest part was hemming the ends of each panel. I am sure it will
outlast me.

I saw lots and lots of standing seam metal roofs on my last trip to
Montana. They are rare here in CA.

 

[srossman]

I put one on my roof about two years ago. I have a 2/12 pitch and was tired of replacing the rolled roof product every 7 years. Myself, father, father-in-law and brother-in-law did it in a weekend. approx 20ft sheets 16 inches wide. I rented a lift to get the sheets onto the roof. I ended up using fabral. Residential: Metal Wall, Metal Siding and Roof Systems – Fabral So far it is great, and hopefully I won't have to do anything more to it.