Starter turns over but doesn't engage.

woodward48413 · Jun 11, 2014

After working the field I shut off, when I jumped back on it wouldn't start, makes a whirring-grinding sound in starter but doesn't start, please help

dieseleric · Jun 11, 2014

sOunds like starter took a dump. Get a volt meter and check power at the starter. Should have somewhere around 12v. You can also take a jumper wire and put it on the hot post of starter and the small excited post and see if it cranks over. Be careful everything is off and innuetrual though. Or if its a standard transmission you could put tractor in high gear and pull start it.

Baby Grand · Jun 11, 2014

Sounds like the solenoid isn't pushing the pinion into full engagement with the flywheel ring gear. Could be weak battery, weak/sticking solenoid, or gear tooth wear, to name a few. Try giving the solenoid a good rap with a small hammer and see if that helps - this used to work on my old Volvo.

RaydaKub · Jun 11, 2014

I'm with BG on this one. If the starter turns slower than required or there is gunk on the shaft, the bendix spring will not throw it out far enough to engage the ring gear. If tapping it works, it is more likely gunk causing it to stick.

Xfaxman · Jun 11, 2014

:welcome: to TractorByNet! :thumbsup:

If you have this type starter bendix and good power at the starter, you may have to remove the starter to clean it and check for wear.

Gale Hawkins · Jun 11, 2014

Xfaxman said:
:welcome: to TractorByNet! :thumbsup:

If you have this type starter bendix and good power at the starter, you may have to remove the starter to clean it and check for wear.

View attachment 378843

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS585US585&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=ford%204000%20starter

I agree and have bought a year or two of time pulling the starter and cleaning. On the backhoe I did this and found rust and a lot of wear in there so I ordered an new one but it was two years before I replaced it because the hack repair job worked longer than I expected.

By then our son was old enough I let him do it with my assistance. He and his twin sister are taking their driving tests as I type and both know how to fix things but are week on parallel parking. We had to look hard to even find a good place to practice.

When you pull the starter keep in mind things may be loose and drop out. They can still work even with a lot of wear with a little lube.

I got a new one for the 1983 JD 310B backhoe (based on 300 series farm tractor I think) for $130 with no exchange required. I added a google link not knowing your year, etc but as you can see they are relative cheap just to go with a complete new one other than repair/rebuild the old one plus you should be set for another 30 years or longer.

Texasmark · Jun 16, 2014

Starters require 100 to 200 amperes to operate properly. Under this load, the battery supplying the current and the delivery system has to be in good shape, real good shape. My rule of thumb is 10v across the starter (12v stud to case of starter) while cranking as a minimum to spin the starter fast enough to throw the Bendix into the ring gear. If you have that voltage and still whir whir then look at the starter. I don't see the Bendix being your problem with what you said.

However you will probably find the problem elsewhere:

1. Discharged or sulphated up battery. WM can check it for you.

2. Dirty/corroded connections somewhere between the battery terminals and the starter points mentioned above. It only takes one and sometimes you can feel it and it's hot after trying to crank. It's hot because there is resistance present and current x current x resistance = power (watts), the power that is supposed to be dissipated in spinning your starter. Since most battery hookups connect the battery - to the engine block, the bolt holding the lead and the case of the starter/block interface are part of the loop and have to be clean and tight also.

3. High resistance starting solenoid. As they age the copper connectors become pitted and cannot carry the required current. Easy to tell, just put your voltmeter across the large terminals while cranking. If you read any voltage get another.

HTH,
Mark

Soundguy · Jun 16, 2014

alot of you guys are assuming he has a 12v tractro with a true solenoid style engagement gear.. when he in fact could have a 6v gasser 4000 that uses a start relay and it sucks in by spinning up and then is oversped and unlocked and kicked out when engine starts.. those drives have a a couple different styles depending on new or follow hru.. but the old style generally shed the pin and front washer and dump the spring.. and the new followthru ones many times loose the drive gear itself as it splits and comes off the front of the drive.

both those situations make for a spinning whirrrrr sound and no engagement.

we need more info from the OP...

Jasper661 · Jun 20, 2014

I had a similar problem, my tractor would start sometimes and sometimes not. While cruising the tractor forums I ran across this article: spinning but not ENGAGING starter problem sloved | Tractor Troubleshooting | Chinese Tractor Owners Association

I took my starter apart, everything looked good, I bench tested it and everything seemed to be working. I put it back together and it started a few times and the same problem occurred. I finally broke down and ordered a new starter gear drive assembly. When I removed the old one I could see where the former owner, had taken the "clutch" apart, because he was having the same problem. I installed the new part, problem solved.

I got my part from Affordable tractor, they have very fast service and very reasonable prices.

If you read over the posts in the attached link, there is some pretty comprehensive information there.

There are also some pretty good videos on You Tube about bench testing and rebuilding starters.. Hope this helps..J