Oil & Fuel Starting after running empty

Ace Ford · Oct 1, 2011

Well howdy. I could use some of the expert help we have handy. My tractor is the 2810 and most of us have changed out at least ONE diesel tank already since despite making a whale of a tough and effective little tractor Branson's plastic tanks/reservoirs leave a bunch to be desired. The tanks are two pieces with seams and guess what? They tend to come apart and leak at those. Anyway, I changed out one tank already at 120 hours on my tractor and day before yesterday, unexpectedly ran out of fuel while operating and sure enough, same thing. Drove 100 miles to the nearest dealer, got a replacement (now the seams are vertical on the new tank instead of horizontal--big improvement

) and spend several hours wrestling that back in (from the last time, I already knew how much fun that was gonna be). While I was at it, I got the new power steering reservoir (now made of metal) and replaced the continuously leaking old plastic one.

Here's the help part. My tractor now wholly refuses to start. I'm sure it is air in the fuel lines, but both the manual and my dealer (who really does know what he is talking about) says you don't need to worry about bleeding the air out. So, what's the verdict from the experts? Bleed? If so, just at the fuel filter (loosen and wait 'till it overflows) or go to the injectors and loosen?

I had a whole weekend sat aside for a bunch of needed tractor work and I've spend all of day one driving to get parts, installing parts, cussing a lot, and getting none of the real work done yet. I really need to have a working tractor tomorrow. I appreciate any input.

Ace

MicroPilot · Oct 2, 2011

I recently had to replace my fuel pump. I had to bleed the fuel system at both the filter and the injector manifold. Make sure your cut-off solenoid is working. It should activate when the key is in the on position.

Ace Ford · Oct 13, 2011

Sure enough, wouldn't bleed because the fuel pump died. Back to the 2.2 hour drive to a dealer.

MicroPilot · Oct 13, 2011

Ace Ford said:
Sure enough, wouldn't bleed because the fuel pump died. Back to the 2.2 hour drive to a dealer.

I'm not positive my problem was a bad pump. I had all kinds of electrical issues. Seems like after I cleaned the main harness connector, that was clogged full with dirt, mud and plant matter AND pulled and cleaned all the fuse connectors things went back to normal. Of course this was after I replaced the fuel pump and tore apart the dash to get at the relays. :confused2:

YanmarFever · Oct 14, 2011

Ace Ford said:
Sure enough, wouldn't bleed because the fuel pump died. Back to the 2.2 hour drive to a dealer.

I bought one at Napa auto parts for the 4220, it works like a charm !

Ace Ford · Oct 18, 2011

tractorErnie said:
I bought one at Napa auto parts for the 4220, it works like a charm !

I found one that would "fit" as a generic at a tractor parts place close by (thank goodness) that works fine. Back to drilling post holes. I still love my Branson, except for those lousy diesel tanks. :thumbsup:

Zork · Oct 20, 2011

Theoretically, the electric pump should eventually bleed air through the returns while the engine isn't running but those pumps are kind of weak. Unless you have time to crank and let the starter cool you could crack your lines at the injectors and be done with it.

The plastic tanks can be repaired with a soldering iron. This information is found online.