Oil & Fuel Starting TU1610 after running out of fuel

richdeming · Aug 31, 2008

Hi folks!

The clear enclosure around the fuel filter of my 1610 fell off yesterday--cracked at the top of the rim and the whole thing fell off.

I didn't see this happen, so I kept going. But of course, this caused the fuel supply to the engine to stop, and I ran it completely out of fuel within seconds.

I got back from the store where I found a suitable in-line fuel filter and tied it into the line (I bypassed the existing fuel filter housing, since there is not much chance I'd find the right parts around here.)

Anyway, I'm having a heck of a time trying to get it started back up. I even tried starting fluid in the air intake, though I know I'm not supposed to--getting anxious to get some work done before the holiday is over.

Any pointers?

Thanks! Rich

larso1 · Aug 31, 2008

Rich, I assume you mean a TS1610? I ran out of fuel on mine too, but just followed the procedure in the manual as follows:

1) Confirm that fuel cock (shut-off valve at fuel filter) is open.
2) Loosen the two air bleeding screws on the top of the fuel filter (you may not have these anymore with the new design filter?)
3) after the air is bled which is indicated when there are no bubbles coming out, retighten the screws (obvious stuff).
4) Loosen the eye bolt on the injection pump fuel inlet line (AKA a "banjo" fitting) to bleed air in the fuel line. It's on the front of the pump. Then, retighten.
5) Loosen the air bleeding screw on the side of the injection pump to bleed air. It is a hex head screw with a slot for a flat blade screw driver, and is located just below the fuel supply pipe connection that serves the rear fuel injector.

That should do it.

Bill

lens12 · Sep 1, 2008

I'd recommend repairing the sediment bowl.

Kernopelli · Sep 3, 2008

As Leonard had advised, I would also repair the bowl. It is surprising how much water and small debris finds it way into the fuel system. You could always get an entire after market unit from any farm supply store if you can't find the correct OEM bowl. After market should only run about $25.00.

KubotaSam · Oct 2, 2008

1) Confirm that fuel cock (shut-off valve at fuel filter) is open.
2) Loosen the two air bleeding screws on the top of the fuel filter (you may not have these anymore with the new design filter?)
3) after the air is bled which is indicated when there are no bubbles coming out, retighten the screws (obvious stuff).
4) Loosen the eye bolt on the injection pump fuel inlet line (AKA a "banjo" fitting) to bleed air in the fuel line. It's on the front of the pump. Then, retighten.
5) Loosen the air bleeding screw on the side of the injection pump to bleed air. It is a hex head screw with a slot for a flat blade screw driver, and is located just below the fuel supply pipe connection that serves the rear fuel injector.

On most tractors you need to individually bleed each injector on the head after you bleed the injector pump.
loosen the nut that attaches the line to the injector. Crank the engine till the fuel comes out with no bubbles. Tighten the fuel line. Repeat for each injector. Then you should be ready to start.

That should do it.

Bill[/QUOTE]

lens12 · Oct 26, 2008

I've never had to bleed an injector to start a diesel, if the fuel supply was bled properly. I've ran alot of diesels out of fuel.

DA^CONQUEROR · Apr 4, 2009

Hello Friends,

I just changed the fuel filter on TS 1610 and it than run for a minute and stop. I sow this post and realised that there is air in the injection pump.
I read the steps but can s.o. specify on the attached picture thich really are the bleed screws mentiond in marks :

4) Loosen the eye bolt on the injection pump fuel inlet line (AKA a "banjo" fitting) to bleed air in the fuel line. It's on the front of the pump. Then, retighten.
5) Loosen the air bleeding screw on the side of the injection pump to bleed air. It is a hex head screw with a slot for a flat blade screw driver, and is located just below the fuel supply pipe connection that serves the rear fuel injector.

Thank you

Mihail
from Bulgaria

larso1 · Apr 4, 2009

Hopefully this edited photo comes thru OK. I added two text boxes with #4 being the banjo bolt at the front end of the pump, just above the top center of the text box. You can see the brass colored hex head bolt that threads thru the banjo fitting in the photo, just loosen it and allow fuel to drain out until you see no air bubbles, or for a period of say 5 to 10 seconds. Text box #5 is for the slotted bleed screw shown just above that text box. Back it out (open it up) until fuel flows out and then retighten it when no air bubbles can be seen. Hope this helps.

DA^CONQUEROR · Apr 5, 2009

larso1 said:
Hopefully this edited photo comes thru OK. I added two text boxes with #4 being the banjo bolt at the front end of the pump, just above the top center of the text box. You can see the brass colored hex head bolt that threads thru the banjo fitting in the photo, just loosen it and allow fuel to drain out until you see no air bubbles, or for a period of say 5 to 10 seconds. Text box #5 is for the slotted bleed screw shown just above that text box. Back it out (open it up) until fuel flows out and then retighten it when no air bubbles can be seen. Hope this helps.

Thank you Larso1 !
You really help me. It is done.

Regards