Steel Gate Post

[Believer]

I'd like to set some 6" steel pipe posts in the ground in Kansas. I want to hang a 16' gate. I was going to do an "L" shape on each side of the gate, welding some horizontal pipe between the vertical posts. I have a couple questions. How deep should I set the post? Should I weld something onto the post below grade that would set in the concrete? Thanks.

 

[BeezFun]

My experience is no matter how deep it is, it sags over time. My neighbor did something that worked. On the hinge side of the gate, the "gate post" is an assembly made of two posts set in concrete about 3' apart, with horizontal pipes welded between them, one at the top and one near the bottom. That creates a frame rather than a single post. It's similar to the way you do corner posts on high tension fencing if you're familiar with that.

 

[tbearnla]

Beez is right for a heavy gate that long you will need to make a 2 post support with pipes welded in between as he described that will hold her up.

 

[GaryM]

If you put a brace across the top of the posts, they will stay in place and the gate won't sag. Of course the posts need to have 10' or better out of the ground for clearance.

 

[Western]

In Believers post, he says he is going to weld horizontal supports!

I would go at least 4' deep on the post. The "L" shape your talking about, is that 3 set post then the Horizontals? Should be a strong set if so, especially if your using a light weight store bought ranch gate.

I like Gary's thought on the entrance overhead pipe, but not really necessary if your doing it like you said, but would be stronger and looks good done right. If also I'd go at least 12' or more, never know when you need to get a cement or other truck in there.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'd like to set some 6" steel pipe posts in the ground in Kansas. I want to hang a 16' gate. I was going to do an "L" shape on each side of the gate, welding some horizontal pipe between the vertical posts. I have a couple questions. How deep should I set the post? Should I weld something onto the post below grade that would set in the concrete? Thanks.

You must do a diagonal from the top of gate post to bottom of adjacent post, and a horiz across top. Horiz on bottom is optional.
larry

 

[Believer]

I have another question about the concrete. Shall I buy the bags at Home Depot and use as is? Should I put any aggregate in? I'll also ask again about whether I need to weld anything onto the post that will be in the concrete. Thanks.

 

[Western]

I have another question about the concrete. Shall I buy the bags at Home Depot and use as is? Should I put any aggregate in? I'll also ask again about whether I need to weld anything onto the post that will be in the concrete. Thanks.

Those bags will work fine as is. I always mix mine then pour, some like to put it in dry and add water. i like to know it's all curing at the same time with no doubts.

You dont need anything welded underground. Set your post and weld your horizontals and you'll be good for along time.

 

[Jaeger]

Believer,

I used a 6"x6"x9' 3/8 steel post holding a 16' gate with no sag.

Put the post 4' in the ground inside a 24" hole filled with concrete. Using weld on hinges from King Architectural Metal:

USA Barrel Hinge. 1" x 2" Weld Pad, 1-3/4" Installation Gap, 5" H, 2.75 lbs

2 of these hinges have worked well for 4+ years no sag. They support like 500lbs each. Gate is like 250lb.

Might be overkill but it'll be there long after I'm gone.

Jaeger

 

[crbr]

Thanks for the link

 

[moored4]

In Believers post, he says he is going to weld horizontal supports!

I would go at least 4' deep on the post. The "L" shape your talking about, is that 3 set post then the Horizontals? Should be a strong set if so, especially if your using a light weight store bought ranch gate.

I like Gary's thought on the entrance overhead pipe, but not really necessary if your doing it like you said, but would be stronger and looks good done right. If also I'd go at least 12' or more, never know when you need to get a cement or other truck in there.

Might want to call the fire department also to see what their truck would need for clearence!

 

[jimgerken]

My preferred method is shown in the attached photo. First, Build the post assemblies. Drill a plate with a hole pattern (or three pattern locations as shown), and then weld it to the botttom of a 4 inch round tube section. Weld on a cap and finish grind and prime. Put a drain hole in the bottom somewhere. Next, put together (welding is easiest) the structure below ground. You want four 5/8" all-thread segments sticking above the finished concrete, so put these all thread sections thru the post base plate you made, then weld them together (where they will be below the concrete surface) with enough metal to hold them in the concrete, I'd suggest at least a foot deep in the mud. Once you have both parts and they fit well, dig or drill a 12 inch diameter (or larger) hole to below frost level for your area. Pour in the concrete, and set your all-thread assembly. Once cured, set on the post assembly with bottom plate, choosing the hole pattern that gives the gate the correct position, double nut (above and below the post plate) to adjust height, plumb, etc. I beleive commercial hinges are available to clamp around 4 inch tube, but I made my own, so not sure. This system will sag if people climb the gate, but can be adjusted to perfect again anytime you want. I always prefer two shorter gates instead of one big gate. Two 10 footers would make it fantastic, plenty wide enough when both are open, and maybe one can stay latched into a center anchor and only one opens routinely. Just some ideas to consider.
Mine was in place last year and had to be removed to move a mobile home thru. Worked great to unbolt the posts, lay the gate/post on the gournd out of the way, dump some gravel on the footing with all thread sticking out, and the house was moved thru. Put it all back together in minutes. Try that with a post set in concrete.

Oh yea, another benefit is, when someone damages your setup with their car/truck, you can probably tune it up again. Or maybe you have to toss all the above-ground stuff but the concrete and anchors are OK, so you fab up some more above-ground posts to nut on, and new gates from Tractor Supply, and a call to their insurance company to get them to pay...

 

[jimgerken]

I found another photo.

 

[forgeblast]

Real nice!! great write up too.