steeriing cylinder leak, gland seal question

[toot77]

I have a 1995 New Holland 1520 that I recently somehow managed to bend the rod on the steering cylinder which has led to a slight leak. I have removed and disassembled the cylinder and I believe I have the rod straightened. It had about a 1/8" bend in the outer half of the 16mm rod). The rod surface does not appear damaged although I can see where the leak likely came from at the worst point of the bend. I am hoping it is now straight enough to no longer leak at that spot. If not, I will have to find a source for 16mm rod stock and have a new rod made. The seals do not appear damaged, but I bought a seal kit from NH to install anyway. The seal kit is packed tightly in a plastic bag so that I cannot easily see what is in it. Also, I cannot see enough of the seal and wiper in the gland to make a determination if I have the correct seal kit (there are at least 2 possibilities). My question is how to remove the seal and wiper from the gland cap. The service and parts manuals describe a lock ring that holds the wiper in from the outside. I can see no sign of that. I would like to know how to get the seal and wiper out of the gland cap (hopefully without distroying them) so that I can compare them to what is in the kit without opening the kit. The kit was nearly $120 and if it is not the correct one, I would like to be able to return it in exchange for the correct parts.

I have attached a photo of the gland cap.

thanks

 

[ccreece]

Do you know what bent the rod in the first place. I have bent two on my NH 2910 and came to find out that the front wheels were major out of alignment. Turn steering wheel to middle of rotation and look at front wheel alignment. Doubt very seriously that you can straighten rod to keep it from wearing out the new 120.00 dollar seal on a regular basis May be better to purchase new steering cylinder from the beginning and after alignment check

I have a 1995 New Holland 1520 that I recently somehow managed to bend the rod on the steering cylinder which has led to a slight leak. I have removed and disassembled the cylinder and I believe I have the rod straightened. It had about a 1/8" bend in the outer half of the 16mm rod). The rod surface does not appear damaged although I can see where the leak likely came from at the worst point of the bend. I am hoping it is now straight enough to no longer leak at that spot. If not, I will have to find a source for 16mm rod stock and have a new rod made. The seals do not appear damaged, but I bought a seal kit from NH to install anyway. The seal kit is packed tightly in a plastic bag so that I cannot easily see what is in it. Also, I cannot see enough of the seal and wiper in the gland to make a determination if I have the correct seal kit (there are at least 2 possibilities). My question is how to remove the seal and wiper from the gland cap. The service and parts manuals describe a lock ring that holds the wiper in from the outside. I can see no sign of that. I would like to know how to get the seal and wiper out of the gland cap (hopefully without distroying them) so that I can compare them to what is in the kit without opening the kit. The kit was nearly $120 and if it is not the correct one, I would like to be able to return it in exchange for the correct parts.

I have attached a photo of the gland cap.

thanks

 

[toot77]

The good news is that I did get the seal and wiper out of the gland. There is no snap ring as shown in manuals nor is there any provision for a snap ring. The wiper has a metal outer ring and presses in much like a typical wheel seal, except that the main lip is pointed outwards.

I have no idea what I did to bend the rod. Neither the cylinder nor the rod shows any sign of being struck by anything. But, I apparently did something to do it. I can tell that the wheels were in the straight ahead position when the rod was bent. The wheel alignment is good. The tractor does not have a FEL so I do not think the axle loading could be sufficient to put enough stress to the rod to bend it. I am puzzled as to how I bent it.

I do agree that the likelihood of the new seal kit having a long life is not good on the straightened rod. It is very close, but not perfect. Seeing as how I have the seal kit (and I found out what a new cylinder costs from NH), I plan to investigate getting a replacement rod made before I give up and buy new cylinder.Thanks for your input

Thanks for your input

 

[CJONE]

If the rod is not bent too badly they can be straightened. The crome/hard plating is not cracked it will be fine. I have done a bunch of different ones all the way up to 2.5". Now the fun part, SOMETIMES the rod will shatter. Consider that a warning! CJ

 

[wdchyd]

use aluminum sheet metal to protect rod from press damage... a dial indicator will help too........I may have a piece of 16mm chrome stock, how long do you need it?