steering bolster bottom busted weld or braze

[ihcrazy]

I have a IH 404 with a bottom bolster that holds the front axle on that is busted from a accident that happened a while back. It has held on for a long time and I didn't know it was broke. The front side is all that is holding the axle on except the rear torsion part that pivots. I need to see what this really looks like as I dont think all the parts are there. The bolt going through the bolster is pretty loose and has only a cup washer on front but no bushing. The axle has a bushing as to rotate on it over the bolt. So the bolt should just tighten up on the bolster? Right. So ordered bushing. Will see what this is compared to what is left of the old one. REAL QUESTION IS. I need to weld or braze this broken bolster. What would you do.

 

[sox3]

I guess that depends on what its made of, how good a welder you are and how much of it is missing. Did you consider buying a used one?

 

[flusher]

Busted? You mean cracked or completely broken/separated?
A few pictures would help.
You need to determine whether it's a cast iron or cast steel part. Check Google to find out how you do this.
Since that bolster is a critical load bearing part, you need to get it welded.

 

[flusher]

Busted? You mean cracked or completely broken/separated?
A few pictures would help.
You need to determine whether it's a cast iron or cast steel part. Check Google to find out how you do this.
Since that bolster is a critical load bearing part, you need to get it welded.

 

[ihcrazy]

Looked at buying used one but way to much. They think they have gold. I have welded for a long time but not much on cast. Brazed up a exhaust on a 240 and is still holding. But this is a little more of a worry point. You would think it would have broke the rest of the bolster, but not. The member chuck has done a lot of cast welding and it looks good but will it work under stress. I am going to the welding shop in a minute and see what they have on the MG200 rod for cast and see what they cost. I ordered steering manual just now also on ebay.

 

[ihcrazy]

it should be cast steel not cast iron. it has to be strong there but did hit a wall pretty hard to break it. and yes it is broke in half down the middle so there is a front half and a back half with two bolts in front and two bolts in back but the (bottom) of the back is broke off with the pivot pin through it and if not for that it would fall off. Oh, and the axle, it has been riding on (the steering arm) to the tie rods. Ill get some pics up later...thanks

 

[ihcrazy]

here are those pics of the bolster

 

[flusher]

here are those pics of the bolster View attachment 326374View attachment 326375View attachment 326376View attachment 326377

Ooh--that's bad. I doubt if you can weld that successfully.
Last year I sent the engine from my 1948 Farmall Cub to the shop for a rebuild. When my builder guy removed the timing cover, we discovered that a flange portion on the front right part the block had broken off.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/farmall-vintage-tractors/238713-my-cub-toast.html

The broken piece was one of the attach points for the bolster to the block and is a well-known failure point on the Cub. None of the weld shops around here would touch the job because they couldn't give their usual guarantees on this repair. I'll probably buy a new block this Fall and finish the restoration then.

Good luck

 

[sox3]

If it was me, I would replace it. Kuhns has it for $269 and Wengers for $253. Just my .02

 

[ihcrazy]

well it was not that hard to braze. I went to a shop down the road and he said he would braze it instead of welding it with the nickle rods as they are a little tricky, kind of like welding stainless. It is done and we felled it with a big rubber hammer and it didnt fall apart. So now I am waiting on the steering manual. Oh, if this had failed I would have made a new bolster for 50 bucks. Like I said, I did weld for 20 Years. Mother of neccesity. Have a good night.