Stick Welding on Tractor Question

[Gordon Gould]

When ever I had something to weld that I couldn't do with my torch I would hire a professional to do it. If he was welding on my tractor or dozer he would always ask me if there was any electrical stuff I wanted to remove before he started because he would not be responsible for any damage. I would just tell him to go ahead and things were always OK but I am sure he knew the best way to go about it.

Well, now I have bought an old stick welder and am learning how to use it. Of course I have all kinds of big welding ideas. My question is how big is the risk of damaging electrical or electronic stuff when using a stick welder on a tractor and what are the normal and reasonable things to do to minimize the chance of damage. Thanks.

gg

 

[k0ua]

When ever I had something to weld that I couldn't do with my torch I would hire a professional to do it. If he was welding on my tractor or dozer he would always ask me if there was any electrical stuff I wanted to remove before he started because he would not be responsible for any damage. I would just tell him to go ahead and things were always OK but I am sure he knew the best way to go about it.

Well, now I have bought an old stick welder and am learning how to use it. Of course I have all kinds of big welding ideas. My question is how big is the risk of damaging electrical or electronic stuff when using a stick welder on a tractor and what are the normal and reasonable things to do to minimize the chance of damage. Thanks.

gg

Many will say disconnect the battery to minimize a current induced into some wire from being induced into another sensitive component by common connectivity. But I think the most important thing is to keep the ground clamp as close as possible to the area being welded. This will minimize currents flowing across things they don't need to be. Of course if the item can be removed you need to weld on, like a bucket for instance, then do that. If not, make sure the ground clamp surface is clean and unpainted and as close to the arc area as you can get it. Won't hurt to disconnect battery too and only takes a minute. I think if you follow these guidelines, you will be fine.

 

[Shield Arc]

I had a 2004 F-550 cab & chassis, with 6.0L diesel. Now I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 cab & chassis, with 6.7L diesel. Both manufactures say in the up fit catalog to disconnect the batteries before welding.

Guys over on Welding Web really brag about this tool. I bought one, but haven't used it yet.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I had a 1980's chevy that I welded a nut to a goose neck hitch to hook the run away cable to. The ground was less than 2 ft from the arc and I burnt out one of the gauges. I would unhook the bat cable or get one of those protectors. Ed

 

[Gordon Gould]

Many will say disconnect the battery to minimize a current induced into some wire from being induced into another sensitive component by common connectivity. But I think the most important thing is to keep the ground clamp as close as possible to the area being welded. This will minimize currents flowing across things they don't need to be. Of course if the item can be removed you need to weld on, like a bucket for instance, then do that. If not, make sure the ground clamp surface is clean and unpainted and as close to the arc area as you can get it. Won't hurt to disconnect battery too and only takes a minute. I think if you follow these guidelines, you will be fine.

Induced currents !!! - I never thought of that - I thought it was all a voltage thing. That must mean you have to be careful where you drape your cables that are carrying a 100 Amps or so. Thanks.

gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

I had a 2004 F-550 cab & chassis, with 6.0L diesel. Now I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 cab & chassis, with 6.7L diesel. Both manufactures say in the up fit catalog to disconnect the batteries before welding.

Guys over on Welding Web really brag about this tool. I bought one, but haven't used it yet.

That looks like good insurance. Especially if the WW guys endorse it - Thanks.

gg

 

[gwdixon]

One more thing to remember is to not weld through a pin or bearing. IE: Don't put the clamp on one side of a pin/bearing and weld on the other side. There is a chance the pin/bearing will be welded to the race because of arching.

Others that have suggested to apply the clamp as close to the weld as possible will usually avoid this problem. Just be aware.

 

[Gordon Gould]

One more thing to remember is to not weld through a pin or bearing. IE: Don't put the clamp on one side of a pin/bearing and weld on the other side. There is a chance the pin/bearing will be welded to the race because of arching.

Others that have suggested to apply the clamp as close to the weld as possible will usually avoid this problem. Just be aware.

I understand what you are saying. Definitely another good thing for me to be aware of - Thank you

gg

 

[5030]

I had a 2004 F-550 cab & chassis, with 6.0L diesel. Now I have a 2007 Dodge 3500 cab & chassis, with 6.7L diesel. Both manufactures say in the up fit catalog to disconnect the batteries before welding.

Guys over on Welding Web really brag about this tool. I bought one, but haven't used it yet.

Says.... Made in China.... you sure it works????

 

[bdog]

I put my ground clamp right beside where I am welding and make sure it is attached really good. I have never disconnected batteries. I weld on vehicles, tractors, or heavy equipment almost weekly. I welded for about 30 minutes on to my 2016 GMC last week and didn't unhook the batteries and zero problems. I know many manufacturers recommend unhooking the battery but I don't even really see what that would help.

Every muffler shop in America welds on cars all day long and they never unhook batteries.