Chains Straps or chains

[jcmseven]

I know this post has been dealt on before, but I have a question I do not feel was mentioned in the previous post on this topic. I am looking to update my tie downs for my new 3720 JD that is coming in. I have used straps in the past with no problems, but they are older and starting to fray. Should I go back with heavy duty straps or should I go with chains? Are there any accessory stores on line from which I could get one of these items? I am looking for something easy and quick to use that will do a good job. It always seems my straps are twisted or the rachet will not work, but I have never come accross a company that deals in tie down chains.

John M

 

[Henro]

Here's a related thread WELL worth reading.. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

[npaden]

I have also used straps and had them break. Luckily the tractor stayed where it was on the trailer and I didn't have a wild ride like Dargo did. I now have grade 70 chain and heavy duty ratcheting binders.

 

[john_bud]

Let me answer this obliquely.

Have you ever been in a boat and had the coast guard or DNR warden stop and check you out? They inspect the life vests first. They check to see that there are enough for every member of the party, that they are sized correctly to support each person and that they are in good condition.

The last point is where 99% of the people who think everything is OK get it. If there is any slight tear, abrasion, or sign of rot -- it ain't safe and you get a ticket.

Now, the ratchet straps you have are made of the same stuff. You have stated that it is starting to fray. You "do the math".

Get chain and ratcheting binders. At least 2, some states require 4. Buy transport chain grade 70. Yes, you can get by with less, but is it worth it? Most DOT enforcement officers HATE straps used to bind wheeled equipment. Why? Are they just being "pissy" or are they trying to save lives? You decide.... Me? I have stamped grade 70 transport chain and ratcheting binders. At least I LOOK like I know what I'm doing and that's 90% of getting it right.

jb

 

[jcmseven]

Thanks for the replies so far. I have used straps to this point, but I have never really felt they would offer much resistance if the load got moving in the wrong direction. There have been a few reasons why I have not yet switched to chains: first I have not wanted to scratch up the machinery, but I am having some hooks welded to my loader and box blade to accomodate this. Second, I have never used chains and a ratchet to strap down anything, so I would need instruction on how to do so. And third, where would be some good places to buy the chain and apparatus needed to ratchet it down? If I could get that easily I would read about how to correctly do it. Lastly, my trailer has a bull ring in the front and the back of the trailer, is this a good place to tie down, or should I go accross the machine to tie down? I sold my JD 4520 last week before ordering the 3720, which is coming soon. One reason for trading the larger machine is that it is an aggravation to haul. At nearly 10,000# of combined machine and trailer weight, it is a load. It waffled all down the road delivering it the other day, and that was with parking it well and all. The crosswinds were bad, and there were a couple times where I felt the tractor was driving the truck. I want a system that is easy to use, quick to attach and detach and would hold the tractor on the trailer if the road were upside down. Small task, huh?

John M

 

[pennwalk]

John,

I think the general answer is that straps are fine for small tractors. But I am thinking about switching to chain for my tractor even though it only weighs about 1600 lbs. I really like a nice set up. I want good places to attach to the tractor and trailer and the right number, size of tie downs that are quick and easy to use. I'm using M&R axle straps and with chafe pads. They are quick and easy. I'm thinking of moving to 4 pieces of chain cut to the correct length and some kind of padding to protect the paint and 4 ratchet binders. For me it is a peace of mind thing.

Chris

 

[Thorndike]

John; I use nothing but Gr70 chains and ratchet binders. I buy my towing/tiedown equipment from AWDirect, just do a search for them, they have all you need.
The attachment is of my TC with the factory tiedowns mounted on the front of the frsme. I get them free from my New Holland dealer. These are the rings the machines are mounted with from the factory for hauling. If they are good enough for them...... I would NOT use points on any removable attachments to tie down. I also use 2 chains feed thru old firehouse, wrapped around the rear axle. That way the axle doesn't get the paint removed.

 

[Thorndike]

Second photo, mounted...............

 

[AndyM]

I haven't trailered my TC18 ever, but I wouldn't mind getting a couple of those to have when I need them. If my dealer doesn't have them, I see they are on Ebay sometimes for a dollar or two.

 

[Hydraman]

You are absolutely correct when you do not tie to mounted equipment. That post by Dargo is exactly why I sound like an old grouch about these things-- the basic laws of physics CANNOT be eliminated; larger mass vs. smaller mass. Then when we hook a trailer to a towing vehicle and hit bumps at 50 MPH, we get a whole new set of dynamics involved. And for all that are worried about scratching the paint; I often wonder how the paint will look after the tractor bounces down the highway at 50 MPH and flips over a couple of times.
It's not a bad idea after chaining down the tractor, to set the brakes and chock the wheels.
I am not the sharpest tack in the drawer, but DOT has a hissyfit about straps and underrated chains for a reason. And I do have some experience at pulling trailers. 110,000 lbs. GVW 140,000 miles a year.