Tires Stud the Tires?

[jim_n_nh]

Question for all? What do you think about me studding the rear tires of my LK3054? I need some traction to make it up my 200 foot/20 degree driveway after I plow down. I do not have enough clearence to put chains on the back if I have a rear blade or backhoe on. I do not intend to plow up the hill, just make it back up to plow down again. Once I plow it it quickly freezes and I have a hard time making it back up.

Thank you,

Jim

 

[JDeerekid]

What tires do you have on it now. I am assuming R1's. Can you get a wheel spacer kit for the tractor so you will have clearance for chains?

 

[JoelD]

Maybe chains on the front only would be enough?

 

[jim_n_nh]

There isn't alot of clearence on the back for chains. I am not sure of the spacer kit. I think I saw one available but not sure of the $$$. The kit for studs is $97 for a 100 of them. My tires are big r4's. I have thought about chains on the front but would prefer grip on the back as well.

Jim

 

[PILOON]

Many plowing contractors around here are using big studs with good success and they do make bigger studs for tractors.
One fellow is on his 3rd season (maintains 80 drives) and all hilly paved drives.
Sure he is missing a few here and there-but 3 seasons!
Oh, and he has 1200 hrs (all on paved surfaces) and some inclines require 4WD access.

For $100. I'd go for it!

Shucks, price out tractor chains and you won't hesitate!

As to front chains, personally (since I needed to replace my front ring and pinion) I don't think most of our CUT's are really made to work the front very hard.
In fact many manuals will state ; 'front assist' 4WD

A buddy on an older tractor simply screwed in hardened self tapping 1/4" screws (the kind that have 7/16" hex heads into his tire lugs. Works great! (but for $100., dealer installed I would not hesitate.)

 

[bearhawk]

A buddy on an older tractor simply screwed in hardened self tapping 1/4" screws (the kind that have 7/16" hex heads into his tire lugs. Works great!

That sounds like a nice inexpensive way to get some needed traction. Just like the ice racers do!

I think 20 bucks worth of screws and an hour with the cordless drill will make a HUGE difference in the traction.

This place again proves it has a wealth of information...

 

[jim_n_nh]

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate all of them. If I do put chains on the front they will be light ones just because I do try to be gentle to the tractor.

My source for the studs is aerostitch.com. I know there must be other places to purchase the studs as well. I would estimate that my tractor spends less than 10 miles a year on the road and I average about 50 hours of total use a year.

Thanks again,

Jim

 

[PILOON]

That sounds like a nice inexpensive way to get some needed traction. Just like the ice racers do!

I think 20 bucks worth of screws and an hour with the cordless drill will make a HUGE difference in the traction.

This place again proves it has a wealth of information...

Agree, sure is a fun site!

I have made dozens of project gizmos that are results of browsing TBN and it is why I like to contribute whenever I think I'll be helpfull.

Re: the self tapping screws--The reason they work is that to be 'self tapping' they are hardened almost to the point of being a drill bit (self tapping) , maybe not carbide hard but at least 'drill bit' hard!

And since with a tractor you generally are moving about on 'non paved' territory the homebrew studs could last many a year.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Its probably best not to use the 3" screws, though!!!

 

[PILOON]

Its probably best not to use the 3" screws, though!!!

For sure.

I guess that the max would want to be about 50% of the tire lugs (or a bit less) but then tractor tires often have 2 1/2" lugs so I see no problems.