stump grinder / root saw ideas?

[Groo]

I have access to some 1/2" AR400 and the means to cut it.
I am thinking of building up a stump grinder. My initial thought was an 18" - 24" large toothed saw blade out of the AR spun with a horizontal shaft engine via a centrifugal clutch and a V belt.

Anyone try something like this?

Any ideas on what I should be looking at for HP and blade speed?

 

[jimgerken]

I made a smaller scale deal about ten years ago. It lasted a few years. Eventually is shook itself to pieces. Mine used an 8 hp engine because that is what I had. It was kindof a toy, but I learned a lot building and using it. The cutting wheel was 12 inch diameter, with 8 teeth, modeled after chainsaw teeth, but really huge scale, like to make a 2.5" wide kerf. There were right hand and left hand teeth. Teeth were made of hot rolled steel and dulled so fast it was crazy. When sharp it worked well. When dull it made noise and dust. I used the centrifugal clutch and double chain reduction drive. 3600 at the engine (max), and geared down about 20:1 total. Used 40 and 50 chain. One inch shafts and bearings all held up well.
You can benchmark commercial units to get an idea of the sizes, HP, gear range, etc. I would suggest you research carbide teeth, replacement parts from a commercially available trencher/stump grinder, like a woods, or whatever brand. Buy the teeth, and design around them. Without the right teeth, the thing is dull in a matter of hours, then it sucks horsepower for no progress. The proper teeth kinda smash their way thru the roots, not really a clean cutting like a chainsaw tooth.

 

[J_J]

Go ahead and cut the rotor out of the AR400, but drill holes for commercial stump grinding replaceable teeth.

 

[Groo]

Go ahead and cut the rotor out of the AR400, but drill holes for commercial stump grinding replaceable teeth.

Not a bad idea. The only problem I see is we'd be talking the difference between 1/2" kerf vs. 3" or 4" kerf. If by some miracle, I got the gearing right the first time it would be quite a bit off afterward.
Its probably worth getting the specs of a commercially available tooth though. If nothing else, AR will hold a key-way better than would a36.

 

[swick1]

Ar is a b**** to grind. I'd use mild steel and weld in a keyed bushing or do a hub and bolt system like on a truck wheel.

 

[Groo]

Ar is a b**** to grind. I'd use mild steel and weld in a keyed bushing or do a hub and bolt system like on a truck wheel.

???? so is carbide. the harder it is, the longer it lasts.

I am thinking more and more to just start with commercially available replacement teeth. I'll probably still to AR. If for no other reason than I could make a go of it if I have a problem with the commercial teeth.

 

[Piston]

I would try to copy an already available stumpgrinder design. They've already put a lot of time and money into research and development and you know they work wonders. I often thought about trying to convert my stumpgrinder to be able to turn 90 degrees, and use it as a tree saw. However, I'm not going to try it.

 

[sparc]

Maybe build something that could use replaceable teeth like this.

Green Manufacturing - The Greenwheel

 

[woodlandfarms]

Whe would you find these plans?

I would try to copy an already available stumpgrinder design. They've already put a lot of time and money into research and development and you know they work wonders. I often thought about trying to convert my stumpgrinder to be able to turn 90 degrees, and use it as a tree saw. However, I'm not going to try it.

 

[sparc]

I would try to copy an already available stumpgrinder design. They've already put a lot of time and money into research and development and you know they work wonders. I often thought about trying to convert my stumpgrinder to be able to turn 90 degrees, and use it as a tree saw. However, I'm not going to try it.

That's how they do it in china isn't it....copy someone elses' design.
I guess the difference would be he would be making one for himself and not selling them.