OP
BobRip
Elite Member
I finished the welding and ground about 5 stumps. It ground well, but there is a little wobble when not grinding. It's nothing like the vibration you get during normal grinding, so I guess it's OK.
Just some additional comments. I talk to Jim at J & S Enterprises about how to do this. He is the tech support for the DHC 2000 (Henrob) gas welder and also the president. He confirmed drilling the holes, but suggest that I taper them. I used a step bit to do this and wound up drilling out about 80% of the metal at the crack (no pictures of this, sorry). He also I suggested that I support the center hub as well as the rim of the grinder blade during welding. Gas welding has advantages for this type of work because you end up heating the entire piece and there is not as much stress built up. So hopefully there will not be future cracks. During the welding I preheated the center of the assembly out to a radius of two inches. When I actually welded even the undrilled out sections melted, so hopefully I will have a long lasting weld. On the other hand, I am still learning this welding process and I hope I got things hot enough. And yes, I welded on both sides. The most difficult part was getting the grinding wheel back on the motor shaft. I beat it with a hammer and I do not feel it is fully seated. I used lock tite on the 1/4 20 by 1 inch bolt which holds in it place and the hex head screw (is that the right name) which pushes against the woodruf key.
I have attached some pictures of the welds for your entertainment. Please feel free to laugh.
Thanks for all of the help and comments. Oh, I talked to Keth at PT and he said worse case send it to them and they will weld it. It probably needs sharpening as it is seven years old. Also the key in the shaft is a woodruf key 1/4 by 1 inch. I got one at Lowes.
Just some additional comments. I talk to Jim at J & S Enterprises about how to do this. He is the tech support for the DHC 2000 (Henrob) gas welder and also the president. He confirmed drilling the holes, but suggest that I taper them. I used a step bit to do this and wound up drilling out about 80% of the metal at the crack (no pictures of this, sorry). He also I suggested that I support the center hub as well as the rim of the grinder blade during welding. Gas welding has advantages for this type of work because you end up heating the entire piece and there is not as much stress built up. So hopefully there will not be future cracks. During the welding I preheated the center of the assembly out to a radius of two inches. When I actually welded even the undrilled out sections melted, so hopefully I will have a long lasting weld. On the other hand, I am still learning this welding process and I hope I got things hot enough. And yes, I welded on both sides. The most difficult part was getting the grinding wheel back on the motor shaft. I beat it with a hammer and I do not feel it is fully seated. I used lock tite on the 1/4 20 by 1 inch bolt which holds in it place and the hex head screw (is that the right name) which pushes against the woodruf key.
I have attached some pictures of the welds for your entertainment. Please feel free to laugh.
Thanks for all of the help and comments. Oh, I talked to Keth at PT and he said worse case send it to them and they will weld it. It probably needs sharpening as it is seven years old. Also the key in the shaft is a woodruf key 1/4 by 1 inch. I got one at Lowes.
, if we never take the opportunity to learn something new we will always be back seat drivers. I'm always willing to try my hand at a new skill, as long as the project is for my own personal use, that way if things don't go as planned I can only yell at myself instead of getting yelled at from a client. 