Stupid Question

[Anonymous Poster]

This may be stupid but as a novice tractor owner, I feel like I can ask one or two of these.

When using implements such as brush hog or tiller that have height adjustments on the implement...can the height also be set using the 3 pt hitch? Another words can you just lift the brush hog or other implement up to the desired height off the ground with the hydrolics and mow with it in that position or do you put too much strain on the tractor?

 

[gusg]

I don't have much experience either but it seems to me that you would want to set the height with the implement if you can. I think it will put less stress on the TPH. As far as a mower, I would think you would also get a better cut.

 

[gordon]

With my rotary cutter I set the front height of the deck using the position control on the tree point hitch. So yes it is ok to do that. I've been doing like that for years. Attached is a pic of my cutter hooked up to the tractor.

As for the tiller I only use the position control on the end of the run so I don't leave a gouge mark at the end. I gradually lift the three point hitch for the last couple of feet of tilling. But when tilling I generally put the position control in the float position and let the tiller run it's own depth until the end of a run. At times you might not want a deep till so you could use the position control to hold the tiller up so you only cut an inch or two.

Gordon

 

[dullpain]

Most bush hogs have an adjustable tail wheel , or 2. The Bush hog deck should be level front to rear. Set your 3PH arms at the height you want to cut and adjust your tail wheel for a level deck at that level.

Most tillers have depth shoes or wheels. I have 2 tillers with each method. Set em for desired depth and go.
Hope that helps. Just one more stupid question left for you Ha!

 

[Mosey]

I do the same thing with my bush hog and tiller as Gordon stated - control the height of the front of the bush hog with the 3pt and gradually lift the tiller at the end to avoid a big gouge.

I also use the 3pt to lift my finish mower, which normally rides on it's 4 caster wheels, when I want to mow a section I don't want to mow at the height the caster wheels are set to. This is very common and some people refer to it as "carrying" it. It's faster than having to readjust the height of the mower by adjusting each caster wheel. It doesn't do as nice a job and won't be level because the mower will go up and down as the tractor goes up and down in holes and humps, etc.

I don't think twice about over straining the 3pt hitch. I haul dirt, sometimes wet, in a fully loaded 30 inch rear scoop all the time, and I'm sure it weighs about as much as the mower. I also use a boom pole and pallet mover to carry things around all the time.

 

[njrqs]

I'd reckon that without the tailwheel (I don't have one) you'd get a lot of bouncing with the cutter up off the ground like that??

 

[Kodiak]

The weight of the implement hanging on the 3pt is not the problem. The problem is in the shock from the weight of that implement bouncing up and down on the hitch. Thats where metal eventually fatigues leading to a possible failure.

 

[gordon]

You don't have one,,,A rotary cutter or slasher down your way or a tailwheel on your rotary cutter??/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

But yes it just rides on the single tailwheel. The toplink has a pivot so it keeps the bouncing down to a minimum. Take a look at a close up of the toplink hookup.

Gordon

 

[Mosey]

I guess I'd better point out that I don't drive at high speeds across bumpy fields this way! Actually, I don't drive at high speeds over bumpy ground with the mower down on the caster wheels either. Common sense does apply here!

 

[TBone]

<font color=red>The Bush hog deck should be level front to rear. Set your 3PH arms at the height you want to cut and adjust your tail wheel for a level deck at that level.</font color=red>

Actually the manuals will tell you not to set the deck level. Bush Hog (and others) says to set the deck approximately 1" - 2" lower in the front for the most efficient cutting and for extra shredding set it 1" - 2" lower in the rear. It takes more horsepower when the rear is lowered because it keeps the cut material under the mower longer.

Like you, I just usually set mine fairly level (maybe an inch lower in the front). I have more horsepower than I need and I don't care to shred the material any more than normal and it gives a pretty smooth cut that way.

TBone