Super A hydraulic fluid replacement, other maintenance.

[jeffgreef]

Hi guys- thanks for your patience with a first time tractor owner. The unit I just bought has had little maintenance for the last 5 years or so and has not been used (since he got a Kubota) so I'm going to change all the fluids- hopefully there won't be lots of ugly gunk in the cases.

Hydraulics are a pump up front that pumps to a box under the gas tank, I'm sure you know the type. So I can drain and fill the box, but if it's at all dirty I'm wondering if there's some means of flushing it.

Any other advice for freshening up a unit that has sat for 5 years in the barn collecting dust? I ordered oil filters from one or the other internet sites.

I have a book with recommended fluids, any suggestions about what you use is welcome.

Thanks again.

 

[Soundguy]

Hyds, you can add a few ounces of diesel and ATF, same to trans/rear. If any water in any of those, add some alcohol too.

Engine oil, drain a quart, add a quart atf


Do a victory lap and drain all sumps.

Refill:

Use an engine oil based on your climate. I like s oils that also have a c rating. Easy to get 19w30, 5-15 w40 like that.

Hyds and other sumps. Use a utd / utf that meets your spec. Hard to find a generic utf that don't meet hytran, or jd20, or NH 134 specs these days.

For rear end and final drive boxes and straight manual trans, gear oils like 80w90 & 75w90. Drop boxes and steering can go 85-140 usually.

If the steering is shot and leaky, repair or pump 0 grease in, and check frequently.

 

[DJ54]

One thing to add to what Soundguy said. Do remove the strainer screen from the hydraulic cylinder block, and clean it. I've attached an exploded view of it, from the Case/IH online parts store. It would be #1 in the exploded view. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts It will be on the left side, and 4 bolts hold it in. It may have a temperature sensor cable coming out of the center of it, for the hyd. oil temp gauge. Not sure if your Super A has one or not, both my Super C's do.

Just be careful not to damage the gasket. Not that big of a deal to make a new one if you do. I've done mine a couple of times over the years, and the gasket seems to come off with the strainer flange.

Clean mating surfaces of the flange & gasket. Seal with a thin coat of gasket sealer, and reinstall. I prefer Permatex 300. Not a fan of silicone, especially on hydraulic components. Years ago I had an John Deere MT where a PO Blue Gooped it, and squeeze out on the inside came off, and went through the system. One piece got caught in the bypass valve. Ended up having to take it all apart, and clean it. Although it was a cheap fix, and the reason I got it so cheap. Owner though the hydraulic system was shot, and sold it cheap. One of those luck of the draw things...

 

[Soundguy]

Agreed, permatex way better than blue goo

When I redid my c I permatexed all the paper and cork gaskets and the timing cover seal recess. 0 leaks now a couple years later.

 

[jeffgreef]

Thanks guys will do. Reading elsewhere on the web a poster talked about lubing the cooling fan spindle with a screw on the fan base, and he said to use a little white grease on the distributor or magneto bearing surfaces.

I'll consider putting ATF in the engine as you suggested Soundguy, but that got me thinking and I looked into engine flush products, Gunk makes one, probably cheaper than ATF. They say you have to drop the pan to clean it when you use the stuff. Think I'll go with the diesel and ATF in trans, hyd, dif and final drive as you said.

I think the steering box is a bit loose. Tractor gets delivered next week then I tear into it.

Thanks again.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not a fan of those engine flush adds.

ATF is safe enough for me

Points rubbing block takes a special cam lube. Ml1 is a type from Napa.

I'd use sun grease as an optional choice too. Anything's better than dry.

 

[DJ54]

For lubing the fan hub. Turn the fan until the large round head screw is to the side, which ever side is easiest to work from. Remove the screw, there should be a small rubber gasket under the head of it. 30wt oil is recommended for that. With a pump oil can, fill until it runs out the hole. Let it set a few minutes, then turn the hole straight down, and let it drain. I put a few of the paper shop towels under there to prevent making a mess. Let drain a few minutes, then turn the fan hub back to the side position, and re-install the screw.

There should be a spring loaded oiler cap on the magneto, to lube the impulse mechanism. A few drops of oil in there will do it, as there is a felt wick in there to absorb the oil. So an auto oiler, if you would, for the time period it was built.

Manual calls for lubing both every 500 hours. The fan hub I do every couple years or so, and just a drop or so on the mag yearly, as they are low hour tractors. When you drain the fan hub, there's no possibility of over lubing. However, go sparingly on the mag lube, as it can gunk up the inside of the magneto.