Surface Scratches

   / Surface Scratches #21  
Agreed. The key is to not get carried away with something that's too abrasive, and lots of patience (and elbow grease).
 
   / Surface Scratches #22  

I respectfully suggest that MMagis is incorrect. Scratches ARE removable in plastic. One of the first posters suggested Brasso for watch covers. TOOTHPASTE also works well....very mild abrasive.
In plexiglass Aircraft windshields (plastic) we used MIRRORGLAZE. That is still available on E-bay and works WONDERS.
Take your time and repeat until scratches are gone....or down to black plastic base:mad:

I work with plastic every day, including some of these exact parts. Maybe I should say that scratches are not removable without dulling the finish. Like I said, anyone who says they did it was actually removing scratches from paint, not plastic.
 
   / Surface Scratches #23  
I am taking back my Brasso recommendation now that I know it is a gel-coat paint finish. I thought it might be just molded in plastic color.. The brasso would have worked for that and you could have ground on it till you were happy. But the Gel-coat thing is a horse of another color :laughing:
I don't have a clue how to fix that. Sorry.

James K0UA
 
   / Surface Scratches #24  
Anyone have an idea on what to use to remove surface scratches on hood of deere 3320 compact tractor which is plastic.

First, the hoods of the 3x20s are the same proprietary JD green resin
plastic that is used on the hoods of the 4x10s and the 4x00s. The
rear fenders are quite different....they seem to be a green painted (gel-
coated perhaps) black resin plastic. None of the panels that I have
examined closely are marked for the plastic type.

In my 4300 rebuild thread, I have shown where I have successfully polished
faded and scratched hoods and cowls. I also successfully polished the
rear fenders. The trick is to do it Manually with an automotive paint
polish. The heat generated by a buffing wheel or power buffer is bad. If
you are very careful not to get the surface very warm, you can use a
power buffer. I tried that and a buffing wheel with polishing compound.
Manual polishing is safer. On the hoods, the color goes all the way
thru the 1/8+ inch material, with no apparent surface coating. So you
can remove scratches, too, if you sand away enough material before
polishing. This is a LOT of work, since you must work your way from
say 120 grit paper to 400 or so before you can use polishing compound.
 

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