I have a 580B, did same as above except I set the boom centered (bucket on ground, of course) and then pulled the pins that attach cylinder rods to the boom swivel so each cylinder body could pivot away from the boom - then used a comealong to pull rods (a pickup with a good hitch helps)
It's good to have a way to catch fluid - as you pull the rods out you will understand :=)
Not sure about 530's, probably the same - mine have 4 holes in the face of the gland nut AND a setscrew that must come out first.
All the commercially available spanner wrenches I saw were overpriced and too wimpy to get an older gland nut to move, so I took some 3/8" by 4" flat steel, cut a hole (hole saw, drill press) just slightly larger than the rod diameter for each cylinder, then cut thru the center of the hole and drilled 1/4" holes to match the spacing of two opposing holes in the face of the gland -
I then (temporarily) installed bolts with nuts both sides of each hole, long enough to weld nuts on ONE side (wire machine is best for this, or TIG) - Then unscrew the temp bolt and other nut, and thread a grade 8 bolt into the welded nut from the OPPOSITE side and use either a sawzall or zip disk and cut the head off this bolt, leaving ONLY enough UNTHREADED bolt sticking out of the (non-nut) side of the steel to just bottom out in the holes in the face of the gland nut.
For a "cheater" bar, I bought a re-bar bender (home depot) which is essentially a 3 foot long piece of pipe with a flat piece on the end, and 3 3/4" diameter pins welded into the flat part - this is normally used to place the pins over a piece of re-bar and bend it on site.
I then drilled 3 3/4" holes in the flat plate (the one with the nuts welded on) matching the 3 pins on the rebar bender, and used that to get a 3 foot handle on my "spanner" - I know it sounds like a lot of work, but some of my cylinders were unbelievably stubborn coming apart.
If you have a welder but do NOT have the capability of drilling large holes, you could just weld a 3 foot piece of 1-1/2" square tube to the plate with the "pins" I first described.
I may have a couple of pix somewhere, if you're interested let me know and I'll look. Another reason to NOT remove the cylinder bodies - if your cylinders are anywhere near as bitchy as mine were, you'll want the body ANCHORED to something while you swear at it (oops, I meant WORK on it :=)
Also, my local parts rapist wanted about $60 per kit for most of my cylinders, I found them here
Equipment Parts Source, Inc Catalog
for $24 each. They don't list parts for the 530, but call them - some of the Case stuff overlaps, and the 580B's had at least two different versions, one of which might match yours... Steve
