Swingset

[Westonium]

I'm building a simple swingset, and I want to get a sanity check from the members.

I am building it out of 4 10' x 6"x6" pressure treated members for the A-frame, with a 10' x 2"x8" pressure treated joist (correct term?) sandwiched inbetween the 6"x6"s with an angle of 60 degrees making a 8.66' high trangle with a 10' wide base.
I intend to use lag screws to secure the posts to the joist - using 5" and 3.25" to account for variation in bevel of the wood meeting the joist.

To attach swings, I am using a large clevis with a heavy quicklink (rated for 3300 pounds so I think I am safe), with chains rated...dunno but they are substantial (I can look later if anyone needs to know).

I intend to drill holes near the bottom of the legs at a right angle to the legs that I will use to bound rebar through (bent at the top) so it will be good and anchored.

Sound safe? Any issues here?

 

[Egon]

Do you think some lateral bracing at the top A joints would be applicable? As well could some sort of support be attached near the bottom of the legs to help keep them together?

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[AntrimMan]

The corner braces are a good idea. Any time you triangulate the rigidity goes way up. When the swings really get into motion you will see how good the anchors are. Have you thought about splinter prevention?
If you wish, I can send my mother in law (and a few of her daughters too) over to test those chains for you /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.
Best of luck.
Martin

 

[drm]

Westonium,

The 6x6 posts are very substantial but each end pair still needs to be tied together. Use a 2x6 with at least two 3/8" dia. lag bolts at each end. The 2x6 ties should be located at the mid height or lower on the 6x6 posts.

The 2x8 on the other hand seems very light. I would use a 4x6 or double 2x8s. Either way, be careful that they are No. 1 grade and knot free. The connection of the posts to the swing beam is very critical, be sure it is substantial.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'd say your going WAY overboard. It's your call.

Me, I'd use 4x4 posts. They are strong enough to support cars and decks, they will be plenty strong enough for a few kids on swings.

The cross beam of the "A" could just about be anything. I'd go with a 2x6 myself. Drill pilot hole first, then eith lag it together , or stronger would be carriage bolts. Be sure to get galvanized rated for the new preasuure treated wood. I think it's called an ICQ rating. Not possitive on that though.

To connect the two "A" frames you build, I'd bolt two 2x6's to the outside top of the frames. Creating an upside down V. That way, your verticle stress will be pulling them together with the "A" frame.

Setting the outside angle, or slope, of the A frame is a good idea, and I'd just eyeball something that looked good. 30 degrees sounds good. Not sure how you would measure that though. If you have a framing square, you could set your picth like you would a roof.

I'd think 18 in 12 would work, or be real close. Remember, 12 in 12 is a 45 degree angle, or up 12 inches, over 12 inches.

To hang the swings, I'd stick with the eye bolt, but thread it up inbetween the two 2x6's inverted V. I'd get piece of 2 inch piece of 3/8's steel that was aboiut ten inches long, bend it over the inverted V, drill holes to bolt it to the top of the V, and put the eye bolt through the middle. It's cheap, strong and will last a lifetime.

Anchoring it down will depend on how wide the base is and the length of the swing. A short base and a long swing will create ALLOT of inertia, pulling the entire swing set over. Spread the base, and you wont need much to anchor it at all.

I'd drive some galvanized pipe into the ground along the outside edge of the legs, then either buy brackets to bolt it all together, or drill right through the pipe into the legs. It depends on how big a pipe you get and hoe far down you set it. Bigger and deeper would be stronger.

Post pics, everyone loves to see a project come together.

Eddie

 

[GaryM]

Just my .02 cents worth, but I'd consider using carriage bolts in place of lag bolts. With carriage bolts as long as the washer and nut are on there, you know it's not coming apart. And use elastic stop nuts on the carriage bolts.

 

[Egon]

The bolts would definetly be a good idea.

Egon

 

[surfran]

Here is a photo of the one I built my son a couple years ago. I used 4x4 pressure treated posts, 2x6 or 2x8 (can't remember) doubled for header.

Bolted together with countersunk nuts so they don't catch him.

Also used normal pine for everything besides the ground contact portions and the header beam.

It is holding up well and heck he even uses it once in a while /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif