Synchronizing PTO Yokes

[twobigdog]

I just purchased a Winco 15 KW PTO generator. I bought the generator, the PTO shaft, and the trailer/cart kit.

The instructions for the mechanical hook-ups and assembly were not very good.
One of the things the instructions stressed was to make sure that the PTO shaft yokes were "synchronized".

I have never heard of this. How can you tell if they are "synchronized"? If they are not "synchronized", how do you get them "synchronized"?

(The electrical hook up instructions were VERY thorough, with good drawings and explanations.)

 

[bkc]

I think they are refering to the yokes at each end of the driveshaft.They should be inline,not 90 degrees from each other.Did you have to assemble the driveshaft? If it was a whole kit I would think everthing would be all set up from the factory. Just wondering, been thinking about investing in a generator.

 

[twobigdog]

Yes the drive shaft came fully assembled. (plug & play, if you will)

The drawing on the assembly instruction sheet was not very clear, and to compound the frustration, it was a poor printing job.

As best as I could make out, the drawing wanted the PTO retainer buttons (tractor end and implement end) to be facing the same way, but on one end the button would be on top, and on the other end on the bottom. If I can get to a scanner, I will try to scan the instruction sheet and post it.

Trouble is, the PTO shaft that came with the unit is the collared type retainer, so there are no buttons. I did notice that there is a plus sign (+) on one face of each yoke, and they are opposite each other-that is to say that with the shaft in place, the plus sign on one end is facing up and on the other end it is facing down.

This synchronization is apparently especially important for generators as constant, steady RPM is important.

I intend to call the factory on Monday and see what they have to say. I am pretty certain that the shaft came “synchronized”, but I am curious now. I sure would like to know if any of you guys have ever heard of this.

 

[twobigdog]

I think they are refering to the yokes at each end of the driveshaft.They should be inline,not 90 degrees from each other.Did you have to assemble the driveshaft? If it was a whole kit I would think everthing would be all set up from the factory. Just wondering, been thinking about investing in a generator.

[highlight][size=+2]BKC[/size][/highlight]

I reread you post. I looked at the diagram which shows a Synchronized shaft
and below that an UNsynchronized shaft.

In both illustrations (drawings) the yokes are in line and NOT at 90° to each other. The only difference I can discern are that the spring loaded "buttons" that you push to slip the shaft on the spline (and push to remove the shaft) both face the same way (either right or left side of shaft when viewed from the rear of the tractor [as if you were the implement]; AND one "button" is on the top and one is on the bottom-but both face the same way. But as I said before the PTO shaft that came with my unit has the pull-back collar type of connector.

[highlight]

As for getting a generator.​

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I think there are a bunch of threads on here about that, with posters more knowledgeable than me.

Basics are. 1 KW = 2 HP so a 15 KW Generator needs a 30 HP tractor to run it (at full load). 10 to 15 KW generators are big and take up a lot of space. They need clean dry storage. PTO Gens in this category are for emergency and temporary power. In the 50 & 60 Ampere class, the wiring cables, plugs, & connectors are EXPENSIVE.
I think #4 -4wire Super Vutron is 7 to 9 DOLLARS per FOOT. A 60 Amp power inlet can be over $100.00 dollars. A 100 Amp manual transfer switch can be over $400.00.

There are lots of different opinions on whether or not you need to disconnect and isolate the Neutral (a/k/a “Grounded Conductor”: In my area the code and the power company DEMAND it. In my case, the builder used a 200 Amp Main Panel, and I had him put in a 100 Amp sub-panel for the “essentials”, between the main panel and the sub panel I installed a GE 100 AMP manual disconnect (3 Pole -- Double Throw switch) between the main panel box and the 100 Amp sub panel.

Do a search on this forum for Generators, you will find PLENTY of help.

 

[cp1969]

Unless you have a big angle in the PTO shaft, it won't make any difference.

With cross-type universal joints, as the angle between the driving shaft and driven shaft increases, the driven shaft is forced to slow down and speed up in each revolution. Ideally, at the other end of a two-u-joint shaft, you would have the second universal oriented so that as the first one is slowing down, the second would be speeding up, thus cancelling out the rpm variation. Do it wrong, and you double the rpm variation.

 

[twobigdog]

cp1969

Well that makes sense, both mechanically, and with respect to the manual. The synchronization warnings were adjacent to, and mentioned in, the cautions & instructions about keeping the shaft alignment as close to perfectly straight as possible, and in no case greater than 10% deviation form a straight line between the tractor's PTO output shaft and the generator's input shaft.

Thank you very much for you post.

 

[Bedlam]

You'd think if what 1969 stated were in the manual , more people would know what is meant. What he said makes perfect sense. I wish the factory would give a more common description when they make manuals.
He stated it very well.As I read It I could picture it and fully understand what he meant, and what they meant.
These company's could use someone with his ability to explain things.
Very well said.
Al

 

[twobigdog]

Bedlam

[highlight]WELL SAID![/highlight]

I agree with you, and am chagrined that I did not give 1969 credit for not only explaining it, but explaining it so that any fool could understand it.