T&T Cylinders for Kubota 27/2910

[glennmac]

From those of you who have installed top cylinders and tilt cylinders on the 2710 or 2910 tractors, would you mind repeating again:

1. What are the proper size cylinders?
2. Where did you get the cylinders?
3. Would I or would I not have to make the "Bird adjustments" to the cylinders to get the proper travel? Or do you avoid that if you use different cylinders than the ones he did?

I know this info is buried in prior threads, but there are so many of them in different forums, and they are so long and technical, that I thought I'd try for a rifle shot answer just for my tractor.

Thanks. (Just in case your wondering whether I have actually bought tools and intend to use them, the answer is no. I'm just doing some of the leg work; someone else will do the real work.)

 

[ronjhall]

Glenn
Here is the note I collected from Bird. I have edited the parts numbers to show what I ordered from TSC.
<font color=blue>1. What are the proper size cylinders?</font color=blue>
HTL2102 Top Link Cylinder
(2” diameter, 20” long, 8” stroke) $185.70 TSC
HTL2202 Side Link Cylinder $185.70 TSC
(2” diameter, 13.5” long, 3.5” stroke)
HV4023 Two Spool Valve $203.84
HV4988 Straight Handle $ 4.43
HV4989 Offset Handle $ 4.43
HV4987 Two Handle Knobs $ 2.40
HV4975 Two Handle Linkage Kits $ 5.20

ronh, I'm afraid there's still much I don't know, or understand, about the hydraulics; however, I see no reason a FEL valve wouldn't work (in fact, I'm convinced it would). BUT, it isn't a simple matter of putting a "T" into the other FEL valve. You have to run a hose from the power beyond port to the inlet of the new valve and from the outlet of the new valve to wherever the power beyond hose currently goes. And the power beyond port on the new valve is plugged. As for the cylinders I used, the dimensions are included in my message posted on 1/15/01 (both are 2" diameter; top link is 20" collapsed, 8" stroke; side cylinder is 13.5" collapsed and 3.5" stroke - measurements are center of pin on one end to center of pin on the other end). And I had to add a bracket to the top of the side link cylinder (the original length would have been fine, but it wouldn't let the lower link swing out far enough). And while everything works pretty well right now, I'd like to be able to tilt the top in a little farther; probably going to have the top link cylinder shortened an inch or inch and a half. If you check http://www.baileynet.com you'll find they list top link cylinders for category II hitches (too big), but they also have an "800" number listed, and I think I'd call them and ask if they don't have something better and cheaper.
8 ¼" QD. $10.00 $80.00
8 ¼" nipple $00.50 $04.00
8 ¼" pipe plugs $00.50 $04.00
6 3/8" pipe plugs $00.50 $03.00
5 ¼"x 24" hose $06.49 $32.45
4 ¼"x 72" hose $11.95 $47.80
2 ¼"x 18" hose $05.49 $10.98
1 ¼"x 12" hose $05.49 $05.49
6 3/8" hose fittings $06.00 $36.00

<font color=blue>2. Where did you get the cylinders?</font color=blue>
TSC. But my dealer told me I could have saved some money with him if I made a order over $500.00.
<font color=blue>3. Would I or would I not have to make the "Bird adjustments" to the cylinders to get the proper travel? Or do you avoid that if you use different cylinders than the ones he did?</font color=blue>
Shortening the Top cylinder was required to get top link in close to the adjustments allowed by original top link.
Adding the side link modification on my 2910 was not required. I did make the part similar to Birds but have not used it. I found that without it I was close to the middle of adjustment for the original tilt link.