T353 electrical problem (long description) NEED HELP

[Jon E]

Boy this one has me stumped. Started yesterday by getting on the tractor, started up immediately, ran it for close to 45 minutes, shut it down a couple of times while I was off the machine, but started right back up again within five minutes or so. I am not a big fan of letting the machine idle for more than a few minutes unless it's cold out. Anyway, I switched from bucket to pallet forks, put a pallet on the forks and drove it up to the house as I was going to load a bunch of totes on the pallet and bring them to my shed. Tractor was off for maybe 3-4 hours. When I went back out to start it again, I got on it, gear in neutral, held in the parking brake (just like EVERY other time I start the machine). The machine tried to turn over for about five seconds and then just stopped. Nothing. I turned the key again and nothing. Jiggled the pedals, moved the transmission lever (is a hydro model), turned everything off and back on again, nothing.

Opened the hood, checked the battery, 12.63 volts across terminals. When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump, the glow plugs "clicking", all the lights are working (4-ways, headlights, etc.) Electrical system appears to be getting full battery power.

Checked the starter, 12.39 volts at the starter, "jumped" the starter with a screwdriver (I know I shouldn't do that but HEY I gotta try everything), the starter spun & the machine tried to turn over again. Probably could have got it running if I wanted to weld a screwdriver to the starter terminals, but I'm not that stupid AND it wouldn't have solved my problem. Checked every fuse in the fuse box, all good. Checked every other fuse I could find, all good. Took the dash apart, checked the brake pedal safety switch, seemed to be working fine, not sure how to TEST it, but I can't imagine that's the problem.

So I have ruled out the following: battery, starter motor, fuses, brake safety switch, key switch, electrical wiring from battery to starter. The machine does not appear to HAVE a seat dead-man switch. I can't find any wires going to the seat and the machine does not shut off no matter when I leave the seat. So I don't think that's a problem either. The thing that struck me as odd is that it shut off in the middle of trying to start. Like the power to the starter was cut suddenly - or a fuse or relay blew.

So what do I try next? The dealer has been OK, not great but not particularly helpful. In this case, I called and was told that I should try to figure out the problem myself and if I was unsuccessful, call in the morning. Well, I'm unsuccessful but hoping someone here might be able to help...

 

[Redneck in training]

Measure the voltage on starter solenoid when key is in starting position. You might need a helper to do so. In lack of helper put a light parallel to the solenoid. If light turns on when trying to start then the solenoid is bad or has bad connection. You can also measure the resistance of the solenoid against ground. It should be several ohms ( 10 ohm plus minus) I think. If the solenoid pulls but the tractor doesn't start the solenoid contact is bad or the screws holding the contacts are lose. Some solenoid can be taken apart some has to be replaced a unit. If there is no voltage on the solenoid then it is possible that the control unit is faulty. Call the dealer and ask for testing diagram. Attached is testing diagram for TYM 330. The control units might might be the same. If not then the dealer has the correct diagram for your tractor.

 

[Redneck in training]

Check PTO button and/or put the PTO switch to OFF position.

 

[Bud Soda]

Had a problem about like that on my 273. Turned out to be a 40 amp fuse that is taped to the wiring harness under the dash. It blew because of chafed wiring.

 

[almaryholm]

Bet there is a fusible link somewhere in the electrical system that blew....

 

[astro1949]

any idea how to diagnose 353 Cruise Control --- it will not work for first 30-45 minutes ---then it's ok..........heats up somthing ?
any help would be great --- problem for about 6 months now on 6 year old 353HST --- had it fixed after 2.5 years -- closest dealer is 100 miles away NOW.....

thanks,
bob

 

[Redneck in training]

any idea how to diagnose 353 Cruise Control --- it will not work for first 30-45 minutes ---then it's ok..........heats up somthing ?
any help would be great --- problem for about 6 months now on 6 year old 353HST --- had it fixed after 2.5 years -- closest dealer is 100 miles away NOW.....
,
thanks,
bob

The cruise control is quite simple. There is an electromagnet that "freezes" the go forward pedal. I don't know from top of my head if there is a relay or if the magnet is operated directly by the switch. It might be bad connection somewhere or the gap between the magnet and the pedal is to big.

 

[astro1949]

the switch goes to a relay then the control module then the magnet..the Switch light does not light up for 30-45 minutes so the circuit is not compleate. the relay is 30-40 dollars and the module is 300 dollars---don't like replacing parts trying to find problem......

thx bob