Oil & Fuel TA270F Fuel Tank Rusted

[htiek126]

I stripped my Iseki TA270F tractor down this week and put on a fresh coat of paint. The only trouble, my fuel tank has several holes rusted through from the inside out. The bubbles of paint on the bottom of the tank were the only thing holding the fuel in the tank. Does anyone know if the tank is identical to the MF1250 tank. They look very similar in the drawings. Part numbers are 1561-111-200-50 for the TA270, and 3708086M91 for the MF1250. At $400, I would like to be certain it is a good match. Are there any other good solutions?

 

[yomax4]

Johnson Solder co. Makes a product that can be bought at Radiator Repair shops. Its a 2 step fix designed for Rusty tanks. You put the 1st part in and slosh it all around until the tank is coated. then you put in the 2nd part ( quarts) do the same. That is the sealer. 2 days later after drying, You have a permanently sealed tank. Then you fix the bad spots from the outside ie;JB weld or something similar. Another product that works well is called Kream. Same thing dump it in, Coat inside walls, Let dry. Done. Both products are strong and permanent.. Very popular with restoration guys on Motorcycles. Cost you about $20.00- $30.00.

Good Luck..

 

[case685]

Fiberglass would also be an excellent way to repair your tank. Make sure you rough up the surface well then apply a coat of fiberglass resin with a small brush. Then put on a layer of fiberglass and thoroughly saturate it with the resin. I've used it many times. Makes a strong permanent repair. Gerry

 

[htiek126]

Thanks for everyone's input. It would be nice to know if the MF11xx/12xx tanks are the same as the Iseki. I went ahead and repaired it myself not knowing if the $400 tank would be identical (plus to save some bucks!). After several cleanings with detergents, extensive flushing, and letting the tank sit for a couple of weeks, I cut the tank open with my plasma cutter. I wore my full protective clothing plus some, as well as built a shield out in the driveway to perform the reach around plasma cut. Despite all the cleaning and with the fuel sender hole open and the fuel cap off (to reduce an explosive event, there were several flare ups that shot out the hole as I cut. I suspect the rust sludge in the bottom of the tank provided most of the fuel. NOTE: I AM NOT ADVOCATING ANYONE TRY THIS METHOD. Once the tank was open, I was able to determine the rust was limited to the bottom two inches of the tank. I used a laser level to draw a straight line on the curved tank. Made my finish cut, treated the inside of the tank with OSPHO, made a cardboard template, cut a piece of 1/16" steel, welded a black pipe elbow on the new bottom, welded the bottom in place, and then coated the inside of the tank with OSPHO twice more. I then used a pneumatic power washer attachment on my air compressor with a pint of diesel as the cleaning agent to remove the debris (NOTE: Another oppotunity for an explosive event - also I wore a portective mask, worked outdoors, and used a fan to clear the fumes). I used the pint up four times, filtering each time, until the tank ran clean. The tank is slightly smaller (however access to my hydraulic filter is easier) and works great. The tank lasted 20 years, and knowing that I keep my tanks topped off and add Power Service Diesel Kleen, I hope to get at least another 20 years. I bought Hirsch tank sealer, but knowing there was all good metal in my tank after the repair and that reportedly OSPHO is compatible with diesel, I decided the risk of tank sealer failure with was not worthwhile. Note: In the one picture you can several holes including a 1/4" hole. None of the holes leaked until I sanded the paint while preparing the tractor for a new coat of paint.